Dashunzhai Sugar-Fired Flatbread

Dashunzhai Sugar-Fired Flatbread

　　　　If you come to Tongzhou without seeing the canal scenery, people will surely say, “You might as well not have come!” And if you leave Tongzhou without bringing home a box of Dashunzhai sugar-fired flatbread, you’ll probably be teased when you get back: “What a fool!” A local folk rhyme goes: “The three treasures of Tongzhou are Dashunzhai sugar-fired flatbread, Xiaolou’s grilled catfish, and Wantong fermented tofu.” Whether by reputation or origin, it ranks first among them. Why does Dashunzhai sugar-fired flatbread stand out among the three treasures of Tongzhou? How has it maintained its fine reputation for centuries? The story must begin at the very start. On the Grand Canal floated a boat. A passenger boat—no different from the ones today. But the river? Far busier than it is now—this was the grain transport canal in the 358th year of the Ming Dynasty, during the late Chongzhen reign. On the boat: passengers. On shore: a shoulder pole. By the roadside: a stove. No need to guess—just a glance would tell you this wasn’t any wealthy family. This man was Liu Gang, a Hui Muslim from Shangyuan, Nanjing, nicknamed Dashun. He sold sugar-fired pastries and fried dough twists and had dreams of expanding his business elsewhere.

　　When Liu Dashun arrived at the end of the canal, he looked up and exclaimed, “Wow, what a huge city!” He saw waterways and roads bustling with boats and carts, mountains of grain and seas of goods, and crowds of tourists. He felt right at home. He settled down in the city, starting small with a shoulder-pole business, then opened a tiny two-room shop on South Street, still selling fried dough twists and making sugar-fired flatbread. Every business needs a name, right? What should he call it? No need for fancy naming conventions—why not use his childhood nickname? So he named it “Dashunzhai,” and the name stuck. That name stayed in use all the way until the Qing Dynasty’s Qianlong era. Thanks to his excellent craftsmanship and brisk business, he bought five storefronts in the Hui Muslim Alley, setting up a front shop and a back workshop. He kept making sugar-fired flatbread but also added southern-style pastries. That name remained in use through to the late Qing and early Republican period. The owner changed to Liu Jiuba (Liu Jiuba being the sixth-generation descendant of Liu Dashun), and the sugar-fired flatbread became even more popular, gaining fame across Beijing. The business grew larger too, branching into four locations—apart from Tongzhou, three branches were set up in Beijing. But disaster struck from the heavens. In 1900, the Eight-Nation Alliance launched a massive attack on Beijing, and Tongzhou bore the brunt. The assault led to countless deaths and shuttered shops lining the streets. Then came more misfortune—in 1912, Dashunzhai suffered a devastating fire after being raided by stationed troops in Tongzhou. Tragic. Years of hard work destroyed in an instant. It was only after the Liberation that Dashunzhai managed to revive, but due to its small scale and limited production, few people in the city got to taste it. It wasn’t until the Third Plenary Session of the 11th CPC Central Committee in 1978, when reform and opening-up brought revitalization, that traditional brands gained attention, leading to Dashunzhai’s second golden age. In 1981, with strong national support, 1.3 million yuan was allocated to build a new 2,800-square-meter factory, staff increased to 200, daily production of sugar-fired flatbread reached 1,300 jin, and the variety expanded to over 30 types. It earned the title of Beijing’s Excellent Product. In the 1990s, Dashunzhai came under the Tongzhou District Jinxiang Industry and Trade Group, enjoying even greater funding, equipment, and production capabilities.

　　For centuries, Dashunzhai sugar-fired flatbread has enjoyed a stellar reputation and constant demand. So what makes it so special? Listen to this song: “… Fragrant, truly fragrant, Filling your mouth, filling your room, So fragrant it’ll make you stumble. Crispy, truly crispy, So soft you don’t need to chew, So crispy it melts your bones. Sweet, truly sweet, Sweet to the heart, intoxicating, So sweet you forget tomorrow… ” It’s a bit exaggerated, but it does capture its key traits: fragrance, crispiness, sweetness… Actually, its appearance isn’t particularly eye-catching—dark brown, shaped like little chess pieces, blunt and blocky. Yet within its simplicity lies charm, within its charm lies ingenuity, and within that ingenuity lies beauty that wins hearts. All of this comes down to its craftsmanship and ingredients. Let’s talk ingredients. Most pastries rely on flour, oil, sugar, and spices... But Dashunzhai’s sugar-fired flatbread uses flour milled from locally harvested wheat, sifted several times—ultra-fine and snow-white. For the oil, it’s premium sesame oil and sesame paste, made entirely from top-grade white sesame seeds. The sugar? Either Taiwan’s “Hui Pen” or Guangxi Wuzhou’s “Lou Chi.” As for osmanthus? Only Jiangnan’s “Zhang Changfeng” brand will do. Now, the craftsmanship. First, the dough is divided into non-leavened and leavened portions, kneaded separately, then stacked in layers—two parts non-leavened to one part leavened. After rolling it thin, sesame paste, brown sugar, sesame oil, and osmanthus are spread evenly on top. Then it’s rolled, stretched, cut into twelve pieces per jin, shaped, and finally baked. The baking process is meticulous: first, a low flame in the pan to lightly toast the surface for one or two minutes, then the pieces are transferred to a tray and baked in the oven for another 15 minutes. Dashunzhai sugar-fired flatbread stores well—even in hot summers, if kept sealed, it won’t mold, dry out, or lose flavor for one to two months. Legend has it that when Muslim imams traveled to Mecca for pilgrimage, while other provisions spoiled, Dashunzhai sugar-fired flatbread remained sweet and fragrant. Historical records also note that in 1960, Indian Prime Minister Nehru specifically requested Dashunzhai sugar-fired flatbread from Tongzhou during his visit to China, arranged through diplomatic channels.

　　Dashunzhai has brought glory to the nation, and its sugar-fired flatbread is famous worldwide. Talk is cheap—what matters is how it’s made, and how it tastes. You simply must come to Tongzhou and try Dashunzhai sugar-fired flatbread for yourself. Paired with jasmine tea and viewed alongside riverside pagoda reflections—that’s an experience like no other. ( Tongzhou, Beijing )