Mutton Eaten by Hand
Mutton eaten by hand is a traditional food of the Mongolian, Ewenki, Daur, Oroqen and other nomadic and hunting ethnic groups on the Hulunbuir Grassland, passed down for thousands of years. The name literally means “eating meat by hand.” The meat of livestock such as sheep, cattle, horses, and camels, as well as wild game, can all be used to prepare mutton eaten by hand, but it usually refers specifically to mutton. Mutton eaten by hand is the most commonly used and favorite meal of the grassland herders and an essential dish when entertaining guests. Over the years, it has become something of a notion that visiting the grasslands without having a meal of mutton eaten by hand means you haven’t fully appreciated the flavors and charm of the grassland cuisine—making the trip somewhat incomplete. For the herders, not serving mutton eaten by hand to guests means they haven’t fully expressed their hospitality. Therefore, hosting distant guests with mutton eaten by hand has become an established custom in the Hulunbuir area. The preparation and way of eating mutton by hand also have their unique style. Typically, a tender and well-fattened small-mouth lamb is selected. First, the hair near the chest and abdomen is plucked out, then a straight incision of about two inches is made with a knife. The hand is inserted through the incision into the chest cavity, feeling for the main artery and pinching it to sever it, causing the sheep’s blood to gather entirely within the chest and abdominal cavities—a method called the “heart-extraction method.” This method of slaughtering sheep is superior to the “neck-slitting method,” in which some of the blood spreads inside the cavity while a small portion seeps into the meat, giving the lamb a pinkish hue. When cooked, the flavor is delicious, easy to digest, and the meat remains clean and undamaged. Then the skin is peeled off, the head and hooves are removed, the internal organs and cavity blood are cleaned out, and the soft belly meat is cut away. The entire lamb is then divided bone-in into dozens of pieces according to the joints, placed in a pot of boiling water without adding salt or other seasonings, and cooked over high heat to preserve the original juices and flavors, with the heat carefully controlled. As soon as the meat changes color, it is usually taken out—often tested by making a cut; if there’s just a hint of blood inside—the meat is removed and served on a plate. Everyone sits around together, holding a knife in one hand and the meat in the other, slicing, prying, digging, and picking at the meat. The mutton eaten by hand is fresh and not gamy, rich but not greasy. This is the common way herders eat it. If in city hotels, restaurants, or eateries, seasonings such as sesame paste, sesame oil, leek flower, chili oil, fermented tofu sauce, light soy sauce, and monosodium glutamate can be mixed in a bowl to dip the sliced meat. This blend of grassland and urban styles of eating mutton by hand is also quite flavorful. If it’s your first time at a table seeing people (including yourself) cutting off the lamb they fancy with a knife and eating it piece by piece with their hands, aside from savoring the tenderness and deliciousness of the meat, you’ll also find it novel and fun. ( Hulunbuir League)
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