Su Zao Rou (Su-style Braised Meat)

Su Zao Rou

　　Su Zao Rou is a special dish from old Beijing — neither a home-cooked meal nor a banquet delicacy. The term “Su Zao” does not refer to imitating the flavors of Suzhou. In fact, the recipe originated from the Qing imperial palace. It combines various Chinese medicinal herbs and spices, which aid digestion and strengthen the spleen. The cooking process emphasizes slow simmering over a low flame, and “Su Zao” includes the meaning of “crispy-style” preparation.

　　Legend has it that in the 45th year of Emperor Qianlong’s reign, while he was on a southern tour, he stayed at the home of Chen Yuanlong in Anlan Garden, Yangzhou. The dishes cooked by Chen’s family chef, Zhang Dongguan, were greatly favored by the emperor. Later, Zhang Dongguan entered the imperial palace with Qianlong. Knowing the emperor’s preference for rich and flavorful food, he created a meat dish using streaky pork along with nine spices — including cloves, cinnamon bark, licorice, cardamom, cassia bark, nutmeg, and cinnamon — tailored to the different seasonal needs of spring, summer, autumn, and winter. This spiced meat broth, named “Su Zao Tang” (Su-style Soup) because Chef Zhang was from Suzhou, led to the meat being called “Su Zao Rou.”

　　The main ingredients for making Su Zao Rou are pork and pork offal. The key lies in using “old broth” and “Su Zao broth.” The reputation of a household’s braised meat often depends on how well its “old broth” is prepared and preserved. Famous examples include Tianfuzhai’s braised pork knuckle, Yueshengzhang’s braised lamb, Fukshunzhai’s braised beef in Menkuai Hutong, and the erstwhile “Bai Kui” family’s braised lamb — all of which owe their excellence to their old broths.

　　Cooking the meat in old broth is the first step in making “Su Zao Rou.” Making “Su Zao Rou” itself is the second step, and also the final one. When preparing the broth, a certain proportion of water, soy sauce, and salt is used. Once it boils, selected Chinese medicinal herbs are ground into powder, wrapped in a cloth bag, and put into the broth to simmer. When the aroma of the herbs and seasonings fills the air, the Su Zao broth is ready to braise the meat. The leftover Su Zao broth is stored, preserved, and replenished in the same way as the old broth, and is also used cyclically.

　　When selling Su Zao Rou, it is sliced on demand, allowing customers to choose what they want. The sliced meat is placed in a bowl (or basin, jar), covered with the original broth, and requires no additional seasoning (though those who enjoy spice can add chili-infused sesame oil). It can be eaten as is, paired with alcohol, or served alongside sesame flatbreads or sesame seed cakes. The broth is rich, savory, and the meat is tender, soft, sticky, and fragrant — suitable for all ages. It truly offers a unique flavor that keeps diners coming back for more, leaving a lasting impression and unforgettable aftertaste.