Stewed Intestines

Stewed Intestines

　　　Throughout Beijing’s streets and alleys, both in the past and today, you can find homes serving stewed intestines with dough slices. In earlier times, even more vendors carried this food around on shoulder poles. Especially when the sun sets, as the stewed intestines begin to simmer and are sold, their distinctive aroma can be detected from afar. Those who love this delicacy will follow the scent, ordering a bowl of stewed intestines along with one or two pieces of stewed dough slices — a meal that satisfies both cravings and hunger. It's a beloved street snack.

　　Stewed intestines, also known as stewed intestines with dough slices, have a history of over a hundred years. This dish originated in the imperial court and was later adapted to become what is now known as stewed intestines. One dish from the Qing imperial court was called “Su-made Meat.” According to A Taste of the Imperial Court, written by Hao, the wife of Aisin-Gioro Pujie, in the 45th year of Emperor Qianlong’s reign (1780), the Qianlong Emperor visited the south and stayed at the home of Chen Yuanlong in Anlan Garden, Yangzhou. The chef of the Chen family, Zhang Dongguan, prepared dishes that greatly pleased the emperor. Later, Zhang Dongguan entered the palace with Qianlong and once served as the head chef in the imperial kitchen at the Rehe (Jehol) Mountain Resort. Zhang Dongguan was from Suzhou. Knowing that Emperor Qianlong enjoyed richly flavored dishes, he created a meat dish using pork belly and a blend of nine aromatic herbs and spices — including cloves, cinnamon bark, licorice root, cardamom, cassia bark, nutmeg, and Chinese cinnamon — to cook the meat. Depending on the season — spring, summer, autumn, or winter — the proportions of these spices were adjusted. Because Chef Zhang was from Suzhou, the resulting broth was called “Su-style Soup,” and the meat itself was referred to as “Su-style Meat.” Later, the dish spread to the general public, where it was cooked together with baked wheat-flour dough slices, becoming a popular and accessible street snack.