Liangzhou Soft Pear

Liangzhou Soft Pear

　　In the depths of winter, it’s the season for Liangzhou’s “Soft Pear.” Among the stalls lining the streets, where bright red apples and golden winter pears shine, the Soft Pears look the least appealing—grayish-brown, wrinkled, and sun-softened into a mushy mess that seems spoiled. Who would spend money on such “bad pears”? But the people of Liangzhou are particularly fond of them—the colder it gets, the more they crave these Soft Pears.

　　This Soft Pear is a unique variety among pears. The small, juicy, round ones are called “Divine Unaware”; those tinged yellowish-green are “Wax Moss”; and the dark greenish-black ones are known as “Ink Pears.” Before the first frost, they are carefully picked to avoid bruising and stacked in cellars with layers of straw between the fruit. After two or three months of dormancy, the pears complete their after-ripening process, losing their astringency and emitting a wine-like aroma. At this point, they can be placed in a cool, smoke-free room to freeze. Once frozen, their skins turn blackish-brown and exude a sweet nectar, which locals call “sweating.” Far from being soft, the frozen pears are as hard as stones, making them extremely convenient to transport and store—they’re resistant to pressure and impact, but sensitive to heat.

　　During the coldest months, especially around the New Year, people have more free time. Adults and children alike snack on sunflower seeds, walnuts, and dried persimmons, often leaving their mouths dry, tongues parched, and heads drowsy. What’s the best remedy for relief and refreshment? None other than the Soft Pear.

　　The way to eat a Soft Pear is quite amusing. First, scoop out a basin of cold water and drop the pear into it with a loud plop. Soon, you’ll hear a series of crackling sounds. In the local Liangzhou dialect, this is called “pulling.” Before long, all the ice inside the pear is “pulled” out, forming a clear, crystalline shell around the fruit, like a big glass ball. Gently tap off the ice shell, and the pear will have transformed into a pouch of sweet juice. Twist off the stem to create a small hole, then press and suck—the nectar floods into your mouth, icy to the bone and refreshing to the core.

　　During festivals and holidays, it’s easy to overindulge in drink—so much so that you lose track of your own doorstep. The Soft Pear is unparalleled when it comes to sobering up. It’s also an excellent remedy for coughs. If you’re suffering from a persistent cough, excessive phlegm, or chest tightness, simply prepare a few Soft Pears, add some high-quality rock sugar, and steam them in a clay pot over boiling water. Once cooled, eat the pears along with the syrup for immediate relief. For more severe coughs, a few grams of ephedra can be added to the pears—the medicine goes down easily and “benefits the illness.”

　　In the winter of 1941, Yu Youren, accompanied by Zhang Daqian, Gao Yihan, and a group of over ten others, traveled from Lanzhou to Dunhuang via Hexi. Along the way, they encountered the uniquely shaped Soft Pears. After tasting them, they found them exceptionally tender, sweet, and unlike anything they’d had before. Inspired, Yu composed a poem titled “On the Road Through Hexi”: “Mountains and rivers endure, heroes pass away; / Around the Qilian, countless battlefields lie. / Don’t say grapes are the sweetest of all— / In ice and snow, the Soft Pear’s fragrance holds sway.”