Zhenyuan Feast

Zhenyuan Feast

　　Zhenyuan Feast

　　Feasts are quite popular in the county, with similar customs across different areas. For funerals, single-meal feasts such as "Nine Dishes" and "Ten-One" are commonly served; for joyous occasions (weddings, birthdays, baby’s first month, etc.), double-meal feasts like "Ten Complete" are preferred. The "Thirteen Flowers" feast is used for both happy and sad events and is considered a high-end banquet. In recent times, notable local chefs have included Zhang Guojun (nickname: Zhang Five-Back-Pot), Duan Wuyin, and Qin Youzhen.

　　The common side dishes include twelve items: four meat dishes (pork ribs, shredded pork, eggs, lean meat or liver); four vegetable dishes (deer horn, shredded kelp, ten-spice mix, shredded kohlrabi, etc.); and four dried fruit dishes (white melon seeds, red melon seeds, sunflower seeds, peanuts). Only in the "Thirteen Flowers" feast is one additional dish added—a Tiger Head Pastry or white sugar plate—making a total of thirteen. The arrangement is as follows: left bone, right shredded pork; left chicken, right liver; left ten-spice, right kohlrabi; left deer horn, right kelp; mouth peanuts, palm peanuts; left front corner and right back corner melon seeds; center is a full plate of white sugar or Tiger Head Pastry. Here is a brief description of the preparation and serving method for the Thirteen Flowers, Eight Carry Five, and Ten Complete feasts:

　　Thirteen Flowers: There are thirteen main large dishes, eight small side dishes, four servings of steamed buns, and seventeen total courses served. First, individual dishes are served—one large dish followed by one small dish, each served eight times, commonly known as “wind stirring snow.” Finally, five large main dishes are served together. They are:

　　① Red Meat (served in a plate as a main dish), prepared in three ways: first, two types (crispy pork and sliced pork); second, three styles (one each of boiled egg, roasted pork, and crispy pork); third, four-in-one (mixed yolk, white, roasted pork, and crispy pork). ②

　　Ribs (served in a bowl as a small dish), cut into shreds or slices and stir-fried. ③

　　Chicken (served in a bowl as a main dish), can be stewed, braised yellow, or served whole. ④

　　Pig’s Trotters (served in a bowl as a small dish), or kidney, or ear crisps. ⑤

　　Meatballs (served in a bowl as a main dish), including fat meatballs, glutinous rice balls, crispy balls, chicken balls, potato balls, etc. ⑥

　　Tripe Shreds (served in a bowl as a small dish), spicy and sour with garlic. ⑦ Three Fairy Honey Meat (served in a bowl as a main dish), honey-marinated meat steamed several times. ⑧ Sandwiched Three Meat (served in a bowl as a small dish)

　　, chicken pancake wrapped around crispy pork, deep-fried until cooked. ⑨ Bone Meat (served in a bowl as a main dish), where white bone meat pieces are coated in egg white and flour batter, then breaded and deep-fried. ⑩ Honey-Glazed Bone Meat (served in a bowl as a small dish), candied breaded meat. ⑾ Pork Knuckle (served in a plate as a main dish). Served with steamed buns. ⑿ Crystal Pork Knuckle (served in a bowl as a small dish), large pork pieces with white sugar and other seasonings, sprinkled with crystal sugar after steaming. ⒀ Sweet Plate (served in a plate as a main dish), sticky rice topped with osmanthus, honey, lily, etc., steamed. Served with steamed buns. ⒁ Chicken Offal (served in a bowl as a small dish). ⒂ Bamboo Shoot Fried Meat (served in a plate as a small dish). Served with steamed buns. ⒃ Ribs or Chicken Horse Meat (served in a bowl as a small dish).

　　⒄ Five Surroundings (five dishes served together: Dongpo pork, flour pancake, stir-fried noodles, alfalfa soup, and white rice). Served with steamed buns.

　　Eight Carry Five: eight side dishes and five main dishes, totaling thirteen dishes. They are: ① Red Meat (plate). ② Ribs (bowl). ③

　　Chicken (bowl). ④ Tripe Shreds (bowl). ⑤

　　Meatballs (bowl). ⑥ Pork Knuckle or Pig’s Trotter (plate). Served with steamed buns. ⑦ Ear Crisps (bowl). Served with steamed buns. ⑧ Sweet Rice (plate). Served with steamed buns.

　　⑨

　　Five Surroundings (same five dishes as in Thirteen Flowers). Served with steamed buns.

　　Ten Complete Feast: ten main large dishes, accompanied by several small side dishes, as follows:

　　①

　　Red Meat (plate).

　　②

　　Ribs (bowl).

　　③

　　Chicken (bowl). ④ Kidney Slices (bowl). ⑤

　　Meatballs (bowl). ⑥ Tripe Shreds (bowl). ⑦ Ear Crisps (bowl). ⑧ Pig’s Trotter (plate). Served with steamed buns. ⑨ Glazed Yam (bowl). ⑩ Bamboo Shoot Fried Ham, or fish, or Three Fairy Honey Meat (plate). Served with steamed buns. ⑾ Sweet Rice (bowl). ⑿ Cold Mixed Meat (plate). Served with steamed buns. ⒀ Five Surroundings (same five main dishes as in Thirteen Flowers). Served with steamed buns.

　　When serving alcohol at banquets, besides the customary three rounds, there is no fixed limit. Wine is poured after seating begins, once when serving large dishes, once when serving small dishes, and once when serving cold dishes.

　　The local yellow wine from areas such as Sancha, Yinjiacheng, Fangshan, and Maqu in the mountainous hinterland is considered the best—pure in quality and delicious in taste. Wealthier families serve both yellow and white wines. With the addition of the Thirteen Flowers feast, it becomes a hearty and sincere banquet.

　　Rural areas still follow the old seating customs. Government offices, however, have abandoned these traditions, streamlining the cumbersome procedures by serving drinks and dishes together during meals, and bread and dishes together at mealtime.