Tofu Fish

Tofu Fish

　　　Though called "fish," it bears no resemblance to one, resembling more a tadpole. Many outsiders don’t know how it’s made. Some locals jokingly claim they craft each piece by hand, leaving visitors in awe.

　　Locals of all ages can make it. Cold water and alum are mixed with soybean flour to form a firm dough, which is then kneaded with cold water into a sticky batter. When the pot of water boils, the batter is poured in slowly...

　　The batter is stirred until fully cooked. The heat is reduced, then a wooden spoon is used to stir the bottom. The pot is taken off the fire, and a colander is used to scoop the mixture into a basin of cold water — the “fish” now takes shape.

　　Originally, the colanders were made from gourd ladles, their holes burned in with hot chopsticks; later, clay ones were used; today, aluminum versions are most common.

　　It can be eaten cold, smooth and soft, sliding down the throat just before you bite it, creating the sensation of swallowing it whole. It fills you up easily but also leaves you hungry soon after. On hot summer days, bold young men sit down and eat two bowls, loosen their belts with a burp, smoke a cigarette, then stand up and eat another two — and the summer heat vanishes, with a refreshing breeze forming under their arms.