Chang'an Powder Fish

Chang'an Powder Fish

　　　Though called "fish," it doesn't resemble one at all, looking more like tadpoles. Many outsiders are unaware of how it's made, and some locals jokingly claim it's hand-shaped one by one, leaving visitors amazed.

　　People of all ages in Qin can make it—by mixing bean flour with cold water and alum to form a firm dough, then adding more cold water to create a pliable batter. When the pot of water boils, the batter is slowly poured in, stirred continuously until fully cooked, then the heat is reduced. The bottom is stirred again with a wooden spoon, the pot is taken off the heat, and a strainer is used to scoop the mixture into a basin of cold water—the "fish" then takes on a lively form.

　　The strainers were originally made from gourd ladles with holes burned in by hot chopsticks; later, they were ceramic; nowadays, they're mostly aluminum.

　　It can be eaten cold—smooth and soft, yet sliding down the throat just before you bite, creating the sensation of swallowing it whole. It’s filling but also makes you hungry quickly. On hot summer days, bold young men might sit down and eat two bowls, loosen their belts with a belch, smoke a cigarette, then stand up and eat another two bowls, thereby dispelling the summer heat with a refreshing breeze under their arms.

　　In winter, stir-fried powder fish is the specialty. A flat pan is heated, a little clear oil is drizzled in, scallions are lightly stir-fried, then the powder fish is added and cooked with caramel color and seasonings. A porcelain bowl is placed over the top, and after a minute or two, the dish turns golden and fragrant. Vendors, spotting women with children passing by, call out loudly—the children are tempted to stay, while the mothers scold them for being greedy but still feed them a couple of spoonfuls before sneaking one for themselves.