Qingshan Pancakes

Qingshan Pancakes

　　Qingshan Pancakes are a specialty snack from Qingshan County, Yulin City, Shaanxi Province. Among the many distinctive snacks of northern Shaanxi, Qingshan Pancakes certainly hold their own. Meticulously crafted, rich in nutrition, snow-white in color, as thin as cicada wings, soft on the palate, warming to the stomach and satisfyingly filling.

　　The main ingredient used in making Qingshan Pancakes is buckwheat. Buckwheat is rich in mineral nutrients such as calcium, phosphorus, iron, manganese, zinc, and lysine. As early as in the Yuan Dynasty, Wang Zhen’s agricultural book "Nong Shu" recorded: “Buckwheat is hulled, ground into flour, spread into pancakes, and eaten with garlic.”

　　The production process of Qingshan Pancakes is very particular: first, the buckwheat is dehulled on a stone mill and then ground into grits about the size of millet grains. These grits are then soaked in water for about three to four hours until they slightly swell. The swollen grits are then placed in a white gauze bag, mixed with water in proportion, and repeatedly kneaded to produce a buckwheat liquid of appropriate concentration. If too thin, the pancake won’t hold its shape when spread; if too thick, it may crack during cooking. Once the batter is properly prepared, it is poured onto a specially made griddle to make the pancakes. The technique of spreading the pancake demands both skill and precision—too slow, and it sticks to the griddle; too fast, and the thickness becomes uneven, affecting the texture. Though a pancake with a diameter of about 20 centimeters only requires a small spatula to rotate 360 degrees to form, mastering the technique is essential.

　　Once the pancake is spread, it is rolled up with fillings such as pig’s head meat, dried tofu, and bean sprouts, and the dipping sauce is prepared. The dipping sauce is a broth that accompanies each bite of the pancake. In Qingshan, there’s a saying: “A bowl of sauce for every rolled pancake.” While somewhat exaggerated, this highlights how refreshingly delicious and soothing the sauce is. The sauce is made by mixing mashed garlic, ginger powder, vinegar, and other ingredients with cold boiled water—the proportions are based entirely on experience. In recent years, while pancake stalls and shops have become commonplace in Qingshan, few can truly master the art of making great dipping sauce.

　　In the 1950s and 60s, there were only two or three pancake vendors in Qingshan. By the 70s and 80s, the number increased to seven or eight. Making a living solely by selling pancakes was no easy feat. In those days of scarcity, when food was hard to come by, many families knew the taste of pancakes but couldn’t afford them, buying them only during festivals for the elderly or children. Most vendors would walk the streets carrying a basket of pancakes and a jug of dipping sauce, calling out to sell. When a customer appeared, both would squat on the ground, the vendor scooping out some sauce into a small bowl and handing it to the customer, then rolling up the requested fillings and placing them in the bowl. After eating, the customer paid and left—simple and efficient.

　　After the reform and opening-up, as the economy improved, people’s demand for delicious food grew. What was once sold by street vendors became an indispensable delicacy at upscale banquets. Pancake shops of all sizes in Qingshan became bustling with customers daily, often unable to keep up with demand.

　　Qingshan is the southern gateway to Yulin City, and pancakes have long become one of its representative foods. Many visitors passing through Qingshan specifically ask for Qingshan Pancakes. In today’s era of reform and opening-up, Qingshan Pancakes have gradually spread beyond their hometown. Walking through the streets of Yulin, one can find countless stalls and shops selling Qingshan Pancakes. Bai Yongping, 48, has been selling pancakes in Yulin since 2009. Each year, he uses no less than 100 bags of buckwheat grits to make pancakes, earning an annual income of over 100,000 yuan. Aside from supporting his two children’s university education, he has also managed to save a considerable amount. Bai told the author: “At first, not many people ate pancakes, but in recent years, with social development, more and more customers have come. Many even take pancakes to Xi’an, Beijing, and other places. When my wife and I get too busy, we have to hire help.”

　　Hard work pays off. Today, Qingshan Pancakes have become a new path to prosperity for the people of Qingshan.