Huo Mo (Oven Cake)

Huo Mo

　　Huo Mo

　　When did Huo Mo originate? Its origins are far from clear. Legend has it that as early as the late Yuan Dynasty, people would hide paper notes inside Huo Mo. It is a traditional delicacy from Anbian (now part of Dingbian County). Thanks to its premium ingredients, meticulous and refined craftsmanship, it has enjoyed widespread acclaim across the land for three hundred years, winning praise from diners everywhere. While everyone knows that Huo Mo tastes delicious, not many are aware of the beautiful legend behind it.

　　In 1697, Emperor Kangxi led his troops on a western campaign against Galdan. On the second day of the fourth lunar month, he set out from Yulin and, after “six days of travel along the frontier,” arrived at Anbian Fort. He then ordered the army to set up camp while he disguised himself as a “muleteer” to conduct an incognito visit. He chatted happily with a local named Gao Shanshen, who warmly invited several guests, including the emperor, to his home. From the inner room, Gao brought out a jar and took out Huo Mo to serve the guests. After tasting it, they all praised it highly and asked Gao about the technique for making Huo Mo. Upon departure, Gao gave the guests a jar of Huo Mo. In return, the guests took off their mandarin jackets and presented them to Gao. Later, Gao discovered that the lining of one jacket was embroidered with a dragon design, and only then did he realize it had been a gift from the Emperor himself.

　　Not long after, the imperial court sent a special envoy to Anbian specifically to invite Gao Shanshen to make Huo Mo. The news quickly spread, and officials from various prefectures and counties seized the opportunity to offer Huo Mo as tribute to the court. Merchants from all walks of life saw booming business in Huo Mo sales, with the product “sold to the east in Shanxi, to the south in Qingzhou, to the west in Liangzhou, and beyond the northern borders.” Among common folk, it became customary for “every household to exchange cakes as gifts.” From then on, locals began referring to the flour used in Huo Mo as “the Emperor’s flour,” sesame oil as “clear oil” (a treasured item of the Qing), and the iron baking pans as “nao” (legend has it that Emperor Kangxi, upon seeing the pans, referred to them as nao). People traditionally hold Huo Mo with both hands while eating, a gesture said to show reverence for the Emperor. To this day, in Dongtan of Anbian, there still hangs a couplet written in honor of Emperor Kangxi’s tasting of Huo Mo: “The golden oven burns with timeless flame, the jade cup forever shines upon the Emperor’s light.”