Scallion Pancake

Scallion Pancake

　　The Suide snack "Tanhuang" (Scallion Pancake) is a unique food from northern Shaanxi. Its ingredients include hard millet flour or cornmeal, with some wheat flour added to make it. Because it is cooked on a flat griddle, it is called "Tanhuang" (literally "Poured Yellow"). In some places, it is simply called "Yellow," possibly because of its color—whether made with millet or cornmeal, both are yellow.

　　To make Tanhuang, the flour is first fermented with yeast and then mixed with alkali to form a batter. Nowadays, commercially available Tanhuang is often made with millet flour and cornmeal, mixed with a small amount of wheat flour. There are two types of batter: fermented and non-fermented. The fermented version results in a softer texture, while the non-fermented one is chewier. For the former, boiling water is used to thin the dough, which is then left to cool before adding the starter dough to ferment until bubbly and slightly sour. The latter uses warm water to thin the dough.

　　The griddle used to cook Tanhuang is commonly called a "Yellow Griddle" and consists of two parts: the base and the lid, both cast from cast iron. The griddle is arched in the middle with a smooth, shiny surface, and the edges are raised to facilitate pouring the batter. The lid is just the right size to cover the base and has a ring on top for easy removal or placement. When making Tanhuang, the griddle is placed on the stove, and the fire is kept low—too high, and it will burn. After oiling the griddle, the batter is poured into the center, where it naturally spreads out. The lid is then placed on top, and after a short while, you’ll hear a sizzle, indicating it’s ready. Flip it over and cook for another 1–2 minutes until done. Remove the lid, use a spatula to take it out, and place it on a rack. Once slightly cooled, fold it into a semi-circle to finish. A well-made Tanhuang has a golden, crisp color without being burnt, a delicious taste, and is very appealing.

　　The ingredients for Tanhuang include millet flour, cornmeal, proso millet flour, sorghum flour, and buckwheat flour, or a mixture of millet and cornmeal with a small amount of wheat flour.

　　Take an appropriate amount of flour, mix it into a batter, let it ferment, then scoop it evenly into the griddle with a spoon to cook. The griddle used for making Tanhuang is commonly called a "Yellow Griddle" or "Griddle," cast from cast iron, and consists of the griddle body and the lid. The bottom of the griddle has three short legs, the body is round with a raised center and raised edges forming a rim, and the surface is smooth and shiny. The lid is bowl-shaped, with a ring or knob on top for easy lifting. During cooking, the griddle is placed on the stove, and once the bottom is heated, it is first coated with oil, then the batter is poured in, and the lid is placed on top to steam-cook. After about two to three minutes, you’ll hear a sizzling sound from the steam inside the griddle, indicating the Tanhuang is cooked. The cook then removes the lid, uses a small spatula to lift the Tanhuang out, and places it on a rack to cool. Once slightly cooled, it is folded into a semi-circle to finish. The finished Tanhuang is golden, sweet, and delicious, very appealing. There are both fermented and non-fermented versions. The fermented one is soft, while the non-fermented one is chewier. Whether to ferment or not depends entirely on personal preference, and different seasonings such as salt or sugar can be added based on taste.

　　Making Tanhuang requires careful control of the heat. Too little heat wastes time, while too much heat can easily burn the Tanhuang. Experienced makers produce Tanhuang that is golden and crisp without being burnt, with excellent color and aroma—there’s no secret, just skill.

　　The Huaining River Valley was once the land of the Di people during the Spring and Autumn period and was where Jin Prince Chong’er sought refuge. The story of his follower Jie Zitui cutting his own flesh to feed the prince took place here. Locals still refer to the Huaining River Valley as Chong’er Valley. Legend has it that after ending his 19-year exile and becoming Duke Wen of Jin, Chong’er wanted to reward his followers, but Jie Zitui retreated to Mount Mian, refusing official rank and salary. Eager to honor Jie Zitui, Duke Wen ordered the mountain to be set on fire to force him out. The fire raged for miles and took three days to extinguish. Later, Jie Zitui and his mother were found under a withered willow tree, their bodies charred by the flames on the fifth day of the third lunar month. Upon hearing this, Duke Wen was heartbroken and decreed that the fifth day of the third month would be a "Fire Prohibition Day," when no fires were allowed nationwide, and only cold food was eaten—thus the "Cold Food Festival" was born. It is said that at the beginning of the Cold Food Festival, authorities would inspect every household’s stoves to ensure no one was cooking, punishing violators severely. As a result, no one dared to cook hot meals during the festival, and those who wanted warm food had to secretly build makeshift stoves in their yards or at the "stove opening" to cook. Even today, in some places, people still set up temporary stoves to cook Tanhuang during the festival, often avoiding their home stoves.

　　Not every household owns a Tanhuang griddle. In a village, there are usually only a few such cooking tools, so before the Cold Food Festival, people pass them around and share them. According to custom, when borrowing a griddle, it must be placed in a basket and covered with an apron so no one—not even a dog—can see it. If a dog sees it, the Tanhuang will supposedly turn out brittle and tasteless. This is a ridiculous and superstitious local custom with no basis in reality.

　　In some parts of northern Shaanxi, there is also a custom of eating Tanhuang on the eighth day of the fourth lunar month. A saying goes: "On the eighth day of the fourth month, if you don’t eat Tanhuang, you won’t prosper; if you do, you’ll thrive" (another version says, "On the eighth day of the fourth month, if you don’t eat tofu, you won’t prosper; if you do, you’ll thrive"). The eighth day of the fourth lunar month is said to be the birthday of Sakyamuni Buddha, and whether eating Tanhuang on this day is related to commemorating his birth is unknown.