Huolefan
On the southeastern edge of the Mu Us Desert, in the northernmost part of Yulin City, Shaanxi Province, lies a transitional zone resembling both desert and grassland. From spring onward, when the first sprouts of green break through the soil, they bring renewed hope to all living things that call this place home.
They are deeply integrated into this land, harvesting hope from the gravel plains and storing sustenance in the desert. They know every plant here intimately, able to find the bare minimum needed for survival even in plants that other animals dare not touch. Resiliently resisting nature, they have thrived across generations, becoming the true masters of this land.
Among them is a plant called shammi, a type of grain discovered and utilized by the people living in this region. “Shammi is the seed of Agriophyllum squarrosum (L.) Moq, an annual, psammophytic herbaceous plant of the Amaranthaceae family.”
Agriophyllum squarrosum (L.) Moq.
In this desert, wherever the environmental conditions are suitable for its growth, this plant flourishes in clusters. By autumn, villagers harvest it, then dry and thresh it to obtain tiny, nearly round grains smaller than sesame seeds. These shammi grains become extremely sticky when soaked in water, and the more they are cooked, the thicker and glossier the porridge becomes. Locals take advantage of this quality, adding air-dried lamb to create a delicious porridge known as Shammi Lamb Huolefan.
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