Tongguan Braised Pancake

Tongguan Braised Pancake

　　"躺着听风雨声，铁马冰河入梦来" — As the eastern gateway to the Guanzhong region, Tongguan has been a strategic military stronghold since ancient times. It is here that China’s military food culture left its most distinctive mark. The roujiamo (Chinese hamburger) of Tongguan features crispy bread enveloping rich, savory meat — a taste that lingers. This was the standing lunch of border guards; Tongguan’s braised pancake is considered one of the world’s earliest forms of instant noodles; its pickled vegetables, made by traditional methods, offer bold flavors and a crisp, tender texture; and its grilled fish reflects the soldiers’ ability to find joy amid hardship over campfires. For centuries, these simple yet unique foods have evolved with the times, deeply rooted in the soul of the people of Shaanxi.

　　During wartime, soldiers stationed long-term in Tongguan, in order to solve their food and clothing problems, carried with them a type of flatbread made with unleavened dough. When it was time to eat, they would stew it with various ingredients, and slowly this gave birth to the world’s earliest instant noodle — the "braised pancake." Over time, through the ingenuity of the people of Tongguan, the braised pancake gradually evolved into the uniquely flavored Old Tongguan Braised Pancake. The pancakes used in Tongguan braised pancake are excellent — fine as threads, with a chewy texture and rich vegetable flavor. This uniquely Tongguan dish fits the local diet and is highly favored by the people of Qin.

　　"Braised pancake" is a staple snack, simple and quick to make, with a soft and glutinous texture, making it very suitable for the elderly. The key is that it doesn’t require fussy main ingredients — if you have leftover flatbread at home that’s dry and hard to eat, it’s perfect for making "braised pancake."

　　Ingredients: 4 thin pancakes (can be made fresh, recipe included), 2 green onions, 1 teaspoon fish sauce, 2 teaspoons salt, a pinch of Sichuan pepper powder, half a bowl of chili oil, 1 teaspoon seafood soy sauce, 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, and an appropriate amount of greens

　　Method:

　　1. First, mix the flour with water, 0.3% baking soda, and 0.5% salt, knead well, and let rest for about 10 minutes.

　　2. Divide the dough into 4 small portions and roll each out into thin pancakes with a rolling pin.

　　3. Add a thin layer of cooking oil to the pan (to prevent sticking), heat the pan, and place the first pancake in to cook until it has grill marks (about 70–80% cooked).

　　4. Add cooking oil to the first pancake, then stack the second pancake on top, cook until marked, and flip.

　　5. Add oil to the third pancake and stack it onto the marked pancake (the first one).

　　6. Once the second pancake has grill marks, flip and cook the third pancake. Add oil to the fourth pancake and stack it on the second one as before.

　　7. Cook until all have grill marks, then flip the entire stack and cook for a bit longer until done.

　　P.S.: Depending on your skill level, beginners can stop at the fourth pancake.

　　8. Once cooked, cut the pancakes into strips on a clean cutting board and set aside.

　　9. Heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a pan, sauté green onions and minced ginger, and add 2 cups of water to make the broth.

　　10. Once the broth boils, add the sliced pancakes and cook until done. Add a little salt, a dash of soy sauce, a bit of fish sauce, greens, and chili oil (added when serving).

　　Tips:

　　1. Since it’s a staple, avoid overly heavy seasoning.

　　2. The pancakes absorb water easily, so don’t cook them for too long after adding — just bring to a boil.

　　3. You can pair with any vegetables — greens, chili peppers, tomatoes, meat, eggs — according to your preference.