Chengcheng Xue Mian

Chengcheng Xue Mian

　　Xue Mian originated in Heyang. Legend has it that in the third year of Emperor Gaozu of the Western Han Dynasty, 204 BC, Marquis of Huaiyin Han Xin used wooden boats to ferry troops across the Yellow River at Xiayang Ferry in Heyang, where he captured Wei Yu’bao of Hedong. To solve the food supply problem for his 100,000-strong army, he invented Xue Mian, which has a history of over 2,200 years. As you eat Xue Mian and reflect on this origin story, you’ll understand how Han Xin came up with it as military rations. First, it’s chewy. The dough is thick and elastic, offering a satisfying bite and long-lasting fullness. Second, it has a rich flavor. Besides common seasonings like salt and MSG, it’s mixed with lard and chili, giving it a fragrant, oily taste and a lingering spiciness—both of which stimulate the appetite. Third, it’s convenient. This relates to how Xue Mian is made. I’ve seen the process: first, the dough is prepared in a large ceramic basin with flour and water, stirred vigorously in one direction with a thick wooden stick until the consistency is even. Then, a spoonful is poured onto the center of a large iron griddle nearly two feet in diameter, and a crescent-shaped wooden spatula is used to spread it evenly from the center outward in concentric circles. It’s said the name “Xue Mian” comes from this crescent spatula. Some write it as “Xuan Mian,” likely referring to the same circular spreading motion. Once cooked, the pieces are cooled outside, then cut into strips of uniform width and thickness, stacked neatly, and can be stored for three to five days. When eaten, they only need to be boiled briefly. Compared to other meals, these three features make Xue Mian especially suitable for military use. Emperor Gaozu’s ability to stabilize his rule owed something to Xue Mian.

Today, society has developed, living standards have improved, and eating Xue Mian has become a bit more refined. It’s sold mostly in small eateries, often alongside other snacks like cold noodles and rice vermicelli. The cooking is no longer done on-site; instead, there’s a front dining area and a separate kitchen in the back. The seating has also been upgraded to uniform high tables and chairs typical of restaurants. People no longer need to worry about how long meals take, as in times of war, especially with the wide variety of instant noodles available in supermarkets. Yet Xue Mian remains popular. I’ve never lived in Heyang, so I don’t know if locals there are particularly fond of it. But in Chengcheng, everyone I know loves Xue Mian. During mealtimes, walk into any Xue Mian shop, and it’s almost always packed—patrons of all ages, genders, and social statuses. It’s not just found in small stalls and shops but also as a featured snack on the menus of star-rated hotels and restaurants. Whenever Chengcheng hosts guests, Xue Mian is always served as a signature dish. Moreover, I’ve heard that Chengcheng natives working away from home, upon returning, will rush straight to a Xue Mian shop for a long-awaited taste before going home. Even when dining out with colleagues, they often choose Xue Mian first. Sometimes, even when eating other foods, someone will sigh, “Ah, I haven’t had Xue Mian in ages!” Whenever I hear this, I think: though born in Heyang, Xue Mian has truly taken root in Chengcheng—and not just physically, but in the hearts of its people. It’s a nostalgic craving for those abroad and a shared culinary passion for nearly all Chengcheng residents. If we’re talking about Chengcheng’s food culture, I’d say Xue Mian is undoubtedly one of its most iconic dishes.