Pucheng Gaoli Meat
Gaoli Meat is a famous dish from Pucheng County in Shaanxi Province. The locals love it so much that it often appears on banquet tables.
To prepare Gaoli Meat, lean pork is cut into walnut-sized cubes, coated with egg white and starch, first deep-fried, then steamed. During steaming, refined salt, MSG, scallions, ginger, star anise, and soy sauce are added. The meat takes on a dark reddish-brown color, tender yet firm, slightly salty and aromatic—suitable for all ages. But why do the people of Pucheng favor it so much?
It turns out that Gaoli Meat is named after Gao Lishi, the powerful chief eunuch of Emperor Xuanzong of Tang (Li Longji). Emperor Xuanzong is buried at Jinsu Mountain, about 15 kilometers northeast of Pucheng County, in what is known as the Qianling Mausoleum. Gao Lishi is also buried there as his burial companion. Legend has it that Gao Lishi was particularly fond of this kind of meat dish, hence its name. Perhaps because Gao Lishi is buried in Pucheng, the dish has become a local specialty.
In life, Gao Lishi enjoyed the deep trust and high regard of Emperor Xuanzong—a fact well known to historians and viewers of the TV series “Emperor Xuanzong.” Due to the An Lushan Rebellion, Emperor Xuanzong was forced to abdicate and died in sorrow and depression. At the time, Gao Lishi was on his way back to Chang’an after being pardoned in Sichuan. Upon hearing the tragic news—great misfortune to him—he was so grief-stricken that he coughed up blood and died. Gao Lishi’s absolute loyalty to Li Longji is beyond question.
In 1999, a stone epitaph with 1,434 characters was unearthed from Gao Lishi’s tomb. The opening lines read: “Serving one’s sovereign is no easy task—let me describe it: those who observe full ritual may be seen as sycophants; those who offer loyal advice are sometimes not tolerated. Speaking bluntly invites criticism and is labeled as presumptuous toward superiors. Being stern invites fear and prevents one from holding central office. As the ancients said, to be a minister is not easy. Some entered the golden gates, ascended the jade halls, served for over fifty years, stayed close to imperial radiance, moved without fault, and offered counsel always accepted—whether advice was major or minor, it was heeded; no matter how complex the issue, it aligned perfectly. Respectful yet not burdensome, close yet not overstepping; advising without defiance, long-serving without weariness; inner virtue shining outward, reputation spreading far—after the Kaiyuan era, such qualities were embodied in Lord Gao.” This passage vividly captures both the difficulty of serving an emperor and Gao Lishi’s consummate skill in navigating court politics.
Tasting a famous dish, viewing ancient inscriptions, and reading historical texts not only satisfy the palate but also offer food for thought—how delightful.
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