Pucheng Shuipen Lamb Soup

Pucheng Shuipen Lamb Soup

　　Among Shaanxi’s Shuipen Lamb Soups, Pucheng’s version is the most renowned. With a deep-rooted history that began during the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty, it earned the name “June Fresh” as it usually becomes available in the sixth lunar month. The dish uses boneless “Tong sheep” meat, bones, cinnamon, Sichuan peppercorn, fennel, tsao-ko, refined salt, and monosodium glutamate, and involves three main processes: raw material preparation, boiling the lamb, and preparing the cooked lamb. It is typically eaten with baked flatbread or Baiji mochi, accompanied by sweet garlic, chili sauce, and fresh garlic cloves, resulting in tender meat, clear broth, a non-greasy texture, a refreshing taste, and unique flavors. It is an indispensable delicacy for people in the Guanzhong region.

　　The soup is made by simmering boneless fresh lamb and sheep bones along with dozens of seasonings such as cinnamon, Sichuan peppercorn, fennel, and tsao-ko for several hours. The exact recipe is a closely guarded trade secret. Before serving, the cooked lamb is sliced thickly, placed in a large bowl, topped with broth, and seasoned with MSG.

　　“The Lu cuisine boasts bear ham, but Qin cooking excels in lamb stew.” The great Song Dynasty literary figure Su Dongpo highly praised the lamb stews of the Qin people. Today, a typical day for most Pucheng residents begins with a bowl of Shuipen Lamb Soup. No matter the season, every morning at six, long queues form outside every lamb noodle shop, as everyone eagerly awaits a steaming bowl of lamb soup. As a result, it’s no surprise that there are forty to fifty lamb restaurants in Pucheng County alone.

　　The story of Pucheng Shuipen Soup can be traced back to the Shang and Zhou dynasties. Since the Zhou era, Pucheng has been known as the “Jia State of Zhou,” and the county still preserves the city ruins and sites of Lord Jia. The origins of Pucheng Shuipen Lamb Soup carry the essence of Zhou ritual sacrificial traditions. The Rites of Zhou recorded: “For suburban sacrifices, the flavor of meat is cherished more than its aroma. Boiled and simmered lamb is used, and its broth serves as the grand sacrificial stew. The grand stew is valued for its essence. Also called Qin stew, its juice must be strained and served hot, taken just before eating.” This technique of separating meat from broth became the primitive form of Shuipen Lamb Soup. During the Qin and Han periods, it was called “lamb xun,” and in the Tang and Song dynasties, it was referred to as “mountain-boiled lamb.” The book Mountain House Delicacies describes the technique for boiling lamb broth, noting: “Cut the lamb into cubes, place them in a clay pot, and aside from scallions and peppercorn, there is one secret method—use only a few pounded real apricot kernels, boil them in flowing water until even the bones become tender.”

　　Regarding Shuipen Lamb Soup, the Book of Song also recounts a story roughly as follows: During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, when war was constant and the people suffered, a man named Mao Xiuzhi was captured. Thanks to his exceptional cooking skills, he offered the Song Wudi lamb soup, which turned out delicious. As a result, he went from being a captive to becoming the imperial chef, and eventually rose to the rank of Duke of Nanjun. This tale of how a single dish changed one’s destiny inadvertently added to diners’ fascination with this bowl of lamb.

　　The beauty of lamb lies in its versatility—it is a treasure from head to hoof. Good lamb should be marbled, melting in the mouth; good lamb broth should be fragrant and delicate, leaving a lasting aftertaste; and good bread should be golden, flaky, and never tiring to eat. Pucheng Shuipen Lamb Soup achieves all three of these qualities. Its deliciousness comes down to three factors: the quality of the lamb, the warmth of the broth, and the aromatic spice. Whether in selecting the meat or brewing the soup, the making of Pucheng Shuipen Lamb Soup is extremely meticulous. The whole sheep is divided into eight large pieces, soaked in water to fully extract any blood, then sorted and placed into the pot by cut.

　　After boiling over high heat and skimming off the floating fat, the lamb is slow-cooked over gentle heat overnight. By then, the meat is tender enough to fall off the bone, and the broth becomes a rich essence of bone and meat—clear and slightly savory, with a concentrated and fragrant juice. “The only thing missing from the lamb offal in Shuipen Lamb Soup is lamb blood. That’s because since the Zhou Dynasty, animal blood has been regarded as an offering to the gods, a sacred element of ancient ‘blood sacrifices,’ so it is not included in this grand stew. This is precisely what distinguishes authentic Shuipen Lamb Soup, the true grand stew,” explained Meng Xianghong, an inheritor of the Pucheng Shuipen Lamb Soup craftsmanship.

　　Another characteristic of Pucheng Shuipen is the prominence of Sichuan peppercorn. Locally produced “dog pepper” from Pucheng is small in size but highly numbing, adding a special kick to the soup. “In June and July, we usually use freshly matured green peppers—they’re fresh and easily absorb flavor, making them very enjoyable to eat,” explained Luo Dehu.

　　Besides the broth and meat, the crescent-shaped flatbread, or yueyamo, is also an indispensable side. The bread used is made from Central Shaanxi wheat flour and fermented with old starter dough to create a semi-fermented dough. The dough is kneaded, divided into small portions, flattened into rounds the size of a bowl’s opening, cut in half to form a crescent shape, and then baked in an oven. It is said that this method originates from the way naan is baked in Xinjiang. There is also a little story about the “soaked bread.”

　　Legend has it that in the second year of Emperor Suzong’s Zhide era (757 AD), Tang Dynasty troops, together with borrowed Arab forces, marched from Liangshang and reclaimed both capitals, quelling the An Lushan Rebellion. With the emperor’s approval, some Arab soldiers were allowed to garrison in Chang’an. Arab soldiers often carried a type of food similar to naan, called “tormu,” during military campaigns. Over prolonged expeditions, their tormu would often dry and harden, becoming difficult to eat. So they mixed it with lamb and lamb broth, creating the early form of “soaked bread.” Later, as interactions between Arab soldiers and locals increased, the method of making tormu spread from the barracks to the streets.

　　Compared to other intangible cultural heritages facing the dilemma of difficult transmission, the inheritance situation of Pucheng Shuipen Lamb Soup craftsmanship is relatively good. The two provincial-level inheritors mentioned in this article accept apprentices from various parts of Weinan almost every year. Over a decade, the two have trained around forty to fifty apprentices, many of whom have gone on to open their own Shuipen Lamb Soup restaurants.

　　“Take our shop for example—we can easily sell three sheep a day. From 6 a.m. to noon, we can sell two to three hundred bowls, so the profits are quite substantial. I think this is a major draw for apprentices, because this craft can bring direct economic returns.” Luo Wenhai hopes his apprentices will open Pucheng Shuipen Lamb Soup shops all over, allowing food lovers everywhere to taste the flavor of Pucheng.

　　Like Luo Dehu, Meng Xianghong shares this aspiration. However, he is less optimistic about the prospect of Pucheng Shuipen “going global.” “The current situation for Pucheng Shuipen Lamb Soup is somewhat awkward. The really well-made shops do well locally and make money right at home, so they’re not keen to go elsewhere. In the end, it’s a mental block—people are afraid to take risks. No one doesn’t want to grow their business, but everyone is afraid of taking risks. As for those shops that aren’t doing so well to begin with, even if they want to expand into new markets, they lack the capability.” A few years ago, Meng Xianghong finally pushed himself to prepare for opening a shop in Xi’an. He had already bought a storefront, but due to various reasons, the plan was put on hold. Still, he isn’t worried about the development of the lamb soup shops. In recent years, Pucheng has vigorously developed tourism, attracting a large number of visitors, which has significantly boosted the local food scene.

　　“Holding a chunk of flatbread, chatting idly, devouring a big bowl of lamb noodles, beads of sweat rolling down your forehead—you feel comfortable inside and out, as if you’ve floated up to the clouds.” Perhaps for the people of Pucheng, this bowl of lamb soup offers not only a delicious taste but also hope and longing for a better life. In 2009, the Pucheng Shuipen Lamb Soup craftsmanship was included in the Shaanxi Provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage List. We hope that, carrying the legacy of the Zhou, Qin, Han, and Tang dynasties, and the charm of the Silk Road, Pucheng Shuipen can soothe the homesickness of Puchengers abroad and become a “living emblem” that attracts more outsiders to Pucheng.

　　Ingredients

　　Made with boneless “Tong sheep” meat, bones, cinnamon, Sichuan peppercorn, fennel, tsao-ko, refined salt, and monosodium glutamate, and involves three main processes: raw material preparation, boiling the lamb, and preparing the cooked lamb.

　　Flavor Characteristics

　　Made with boneless “Tong sheep” meat, bones, cinnamon, Sichuan peppercorn, fennel, tsao-ko, refined salt, and monosodium glutamate, and involves three main processes: raw material preparation, boiling the lamb, and preparing the cooked lamb. When eaten with baked flatbread or Baiji mochi, and served with sweet garlic, chili sauce, and fresh garlic cloves, the meat is tender, the broth is clear, it’s not greasy, has a refreshing taste, and is uniquely flavorful—much beloved by diners.