Douyichu Shaomai

Douyichu Shaomai

　　When it comes to Douyichu’s shaomai, no one in Beijing is unfamiliar with it. Shaomai is a traditional folk food in China, shaped like a pomegranate, snow-white and translucent, with generous filling and thin wrappers, offering a rich and delicious taste. Douyichu’s shaomai captivates a wide range of domestic and international guests with its unique charm.

　　So, how did Douyichu come to be?

　　At the end of the Ming Dynasty and the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, Shanxi merchants began expanding outward, and many people from Shanxi went to other provinces or came to the capital to do business. The founder of Douyichu, Wang Ruifu, was one of them. To escape poverty, he set off on a thousand-mile journey to the capital from his hometown, carrying ample dry rations and riding a donkey, staying at the “Fushan Guild Hall” in Ya’er Hutong, outside Qianmen in Beijing.

　　Qianmen was a bustling hub of merchants, with thriving trade along the streets. Seeing all this, Wang Ruifu racked his brain, unsure where to start. A fellow townsman advised him to simply set up a wine stall (open a tavern) on Qianmen Street. He took the advice and opened a “Wang Family Wine Shop” in Xianyukou in the third year of the Qianlong reign (1738 AD). Business was good after opening, and he quickly started making money. At that time, the “Buddha’s Hand Wine” from abroad was all the rage in the capital. Wang Ruifu had a sudden idea: serving guests Western wine with Chinese dishes—this East-meets-West combination would seem novel and taste distinctive, sure to stand out. Thus, the style of the “Wang Family Wine Shop” changed. In addition to selling aged wine, they added homemade “pickled meat,” “cold meat,” and “horse hoof meat,” pairing them with foreign wine. Business flourished as a result.

　　After several years of careful management, Wang Ruifu made quite a fortune. He then expanded the business space and built a two-story building facing the street: the ground floor served casual customers, while the upper floor featured private rooms. The “Wang Family Wine Shop” became a sizable restaurant.

　　At that time, the Qianmen area was full of taverns, and competition was fierce. To grow the business, Wang Ruifu worked from dawn to dusk. He opened earlier than others in the morning and closed later at night, even operating on New Year’s Eve to serve those debt-evading customers. His efforts paid off, and it seemed fate was on his side: on New Year’s Eve of the 17th year of Qianlong’s reign (1752 AD), Emperor Qianlong returned incognito from Tongzhou and entered the city through Yongdingmen (it’s said that when the emperor left the city, he would always go through Shengmen, meaning “victory upon departure”; when returning, he would use Yongdingmen or Andingmen, meaning “eternal peace”). By the time he reached Qianmen Street, the emperor and his entourage were exhausted and famished. It was already late, and all shops were closed except for the “Wang Family Wine Shop,” which still had its lights on and was open for business. The emperor and his followers went in for a meal. Wang Ruifu, busy in the shop, noticed three well-dressed and dignified-looking guests who must have been no ordinary people. He promptly led them to a private room upstairs, instructing the staff to serve wine and dishes with great attentiveness. The emperor ate and drank to his heart’s content and was very satisfied. Pleased with what he experienced, he took note of this hardworking little shop and asked casually, “What’s the name of your shop?” Wang Ruifu respectfully replied, “Your Honor, my humble shop has not yet been officially named.” At that moment, fireworks were crackling outside, creating a lively atmosphere. The emperor looked around, pondered briefly, and remarked, “On this quiet New Year’s Eve, there’s probably only one place in the capital still offering good wine and food, and that’s your shop. I think you should call it ‘Douyichu’ (literally ‘The One and Only Place’).” “Yes, Your Honor,” Wang Ruifu responded politely. Since he didn’t know who the guest really was, he didn’t take the matter too seriously.

　　After returning to the palace, the emperor, in high spirits, personally wrote the three characters “都一处” (“Douyichu”) and had them made into a plaque, which was sent to the tavern by an imperial eunuch. Upon hearing the news, Wang Ruifu was astonished. Facing the plaque bestowed by the Emperor himself, he immediately dropped to his knees to express deep gratitude for the imperial grace. Then he solemnly accepted the plaque and hung it prominently in the center of the hall. From then on, the “Wang Family Wine Shop” had its grand new name, “Douyichu,” and its prestige and business soared.

　　After receiving the emperor’s plaque, Douyichu’s business grew significantly. In addition to wine and cold dishes, dozens of stir-fried dishes were added, along with shaomai, fried triangular dumplings, dumplings, and pies.

　　The term “shaomai” was originally written as “梢麦” (shāo mài), following the Ming Dynasty usage. In the north, wheat develops a layer of white frost on its tips around April and May, and the sealed edge of shaomai also resembles a layer of white flour, hence the name. “Shāo mài” was used from the Ming Dynasty until it was changed to “shaomai” in the 1940s. Shaomai was initially just a regular noodle dish at Douyichu. How it became famous, however, is something most people may not know.

　　It turns out that by the 1930s, the shop owner was leading a dissolute life, indulging in extravagance, but was extremely harsh toward the staff. Not only were wages meager, but meals were also very poor—just cornbread and pickles all day. The employees harbored resentment but dared not speak out. To vent their frustration, they began using more ingredients and cooking more liberally. Chefs added more oil when stir-frying dishes, and shaomai makers packed the filling with generous amounts of shrimp and crab meat. Even the water used to mix the filling was replaced with a mix of water and oil. The staff hoped this would cut into the boss’s profits, but unexpectedly, the opposite happened—the quality of Douyichu’s shaomai greatly improved. The shaomai became snow-white and translucent, with fragrant and non-greasy fillings, attracting more and more customers. Due to overwhelming demand, the shop temporarily stopped selling dumplings and pies, focusing exclusively on shaomai. From then on, Douyichu’s shaomai became even more renowned.

　　Over time, Douyichu underwent many changes. In recent years, the establishment has continuously innovated while preserving traditional flavors, attracting a broad clientele both domestically and internationally. It showcases the renewed spirit of a century-old shop through its “famous eatery, signature snacks, cultural heritage, and folk traditions.”