Dongshan Radish and West Lake Fish

Dongshan Radish and West Lake Fish

　　“Dongshan Radish and West Lake Fish” is a local proverb in Jianchuan, so famous that it has even been turned into a Bai folk song by local singers. “Dongshan Radish” refers to the turnips grown in the Qinghua and Yuhua areas of Jianchuan, known among the local Bai people as “tu pian ci.” These turnips mainly grow in cold, high-altitude regions and bloom yellow flowers. The color of turnips is generally white, but Dongshan radishes (turnips) are purplish-red — possibly due to the presence of rare carbon elements in the soil, which give these turnips their unique color. Their texture and flavor are also superior to ordinary turnips. In winter, the turnips are sliced, threaded onto bamboo strips, and hung up to dry, becoming what is called “gan na fu.” They can be used in soups or stir-fries, or pickled with pig liver to make canned preserves — a rare green and eco-friendly food.

　　West Lake Fish refers to the crucian carp from Jianchuan’s West Lake. Crucian carp are also called “fu yu.” The character “fu” means to follow or accompany, which reflects how these fish often swim together in schools. Though common in freshwater lakes, the crucian carp of West Lake are quite special, with black backs. Crucian carp in other parts of Yunnan tend to be lighter in color, larger in size, and have too many bones, making them less popular. During the Republican era, Zhao Shiming wrote while in Kunming: “There are plenty of these fish (crucian carp) in Kunming, but they are not highly valued.” Their low status in Kunming was due to their poor taste, which prompted Zhao’s remark.

　　He added: “The fish are round-bodied with purple scales, and in my hometown, we greatly enjoy this delicacy, considering it a tonic.” As for why West Lake fish have black backs, it may be related to the lakebed’s soil, which is pitch black. Beneath the surface layer lies peat coal, which nearby villages used to dig up around the late winter or early spring seasons. The black backs and delicious taste of West Lake fish are likely connected to certain mineral elements in this soil. Just as with Dongshan radishes, when Dongshan radishes are cooked with West Lake fish, the flavor is exceptionally delicious. Nowadays, the historical West Lake has been turned into farmland, but fortunately, most of its site has been converted by locals into fish ponds. The fish raised here still have black backs and a flavor superior to those from other areas.