Suijiang Wine-Scented Bugs

Suijiang Wine-Scented Bugs

　　The natural and cultural landscapes of Suijiang are uniquely shaped by the rising river and beautifully revealed as the waters recede. In the golden October days, when maple leaves turn red and dew glistens white under the bright sun, the banks of the Jinsha River bustling with sailboats and the rugged Zhongqiba area scattered with jagged rocks are teeming with constant streams of visitors. From afar, the scene is a dazzling tapestry, like vibrant mountain blossoms; up close, however, it’s a whirlwind of flying sand and shifting stones, resembling a battlefield in full clash. People of all ages and genders pour out of the town, everyone brave and eager, flipping nearly every movable stone on Zhongqiba thousands of times. This grand spectacle, spectacular scene, and peculiar local activity leave passing merchants stopping in awe and lingering in wonder. Those unaware might think the people of Suijiang are staging some large-scale event, but upon learning that these crowds are gathering wine-scented bugs in groups, they all burst into applause, exclaiming in amazement: “One of Yunnan’s nineteen oddities—wine-scented bugs have become a delicacy.”　

　　Wine-scented bugs, scientifically known as stink bugs, are locally called “farting bugs.” About the size of a fingernail, they have double wings and can fly, yet once they land, they become extremely clumsy and can be easily handled—even soaked in alcohol for drinking. The old *Suijiang County Annals* record: “In their early stage, these bugs are green and emit an unbearable stench when they urinate. After Bailu (the traditional solar term marking the start of cooler weather), when the river water begins to recede, they gather by the hundreds of thousands, hiding under rocks. About an hour later, they suddenly turn black. Their bodies grow plump, filled with white fat inside. They disappear after about a month. Flip over rocks to catch them, soak them in warm water to remove the urine, then stir-fry them. They taste delicious, rich, and highly nutritious—truly one of the most extraordinary specialties of Suijiang.”　

　　Wine-scented bugs are a specialty of Suijiang, and catching and eating them is a “patent” of the locals. Looking across neighboring counties and even river valleys and deep gullies across the country, though there are countless clumsy, plump stink bugs, no one else has been seen catching or eating them. Outsiders who try wine-scented bugs in Suijiang find them incredibly tasty and enjoyable, and when they return home and try catching them too, the taste changes drastically. The reason may lie in differences in soil and water.　

　　Zhongqiba is Suijiang’s treasure trove and one of the more unique sand and stone flats downstream of the Jinsha River. It is rich in construction resources and even more so in naturally polished, colorful, and nationally renowned exotic stones of the Jinsha River that require no carving. In the warm October sunshine of spring, flipping farting bugs and picking exotic stones at Zhongqiba is truly a delightful and carefree activity. It not only builds physical strength and tempers perseverance, but also helps you focus intently, with your breath sinking to your dantian (lower abdomen), replacing myriad thoughts with a single one, quickly entering a meditative state of unity with the universe. Even those who don’t catch wine-scented bugs can enjoy the extraordinary and transcendent pleasure of simply watching others do it by the river. Strolling through the colorful crowds, wandering among the oddly shaped pebbles, admiring the poetic movements of graceful ladies, listening to the mighty shouts of burly men; or looking up at the sky, down at the earth, sending off southbound wild geese, chanting about the great river flowing east; or appreciating elegant peaks and fine brushstrokes, watching the battle of rainbow glows, the raging waves of the Jinsha, and the clear ripples of the Wen River. Without envy for those with bulging bags or shame for returning empty-handed, you’ll soon feel that this place’s scenery is truly marvelous—what place or sage could dare compare to such wild delight.　

　　As evening falls, the strange yet delightful aroma of wine-scented bugs wafts through the quaint riverside town of Suijiang nestled between mountains and water. At the snack stalls lining the long streets, in the neon-lit wide restaurants and grand halls, as well as in the wooden houses and bamboo chair households of common folks, the tables are full, laughter abounds, and conversations are fragrant. Glossy yellow, oily-shiny, and crispy farting bugs become an absolutely mouthwatering delicacy. Young men and women, relatives and friends gather together, chewing on a handful of wine-scented bugs, sipping a cup of corn liquor, sharing tales of joy and sorrow, singing soulful ballads; talking about sunny days and singing of fragrant meadows, watching TV news, voicing the concerns of ordinary people. Everyone is brimming with passion and high spirits, past grudges dissolved, inner burdens instantly lifted.　

　　In recent years, riding the wave of reform and opening-up, Suijiang’s farting bug culture has continuously evolved and developed in depth. Though many still scramble around driven by culinary desires, most now view catching wine-scented bugs as a recreational activity, a way to relax and reconnect with nature. These tiny bugs have become a famous Suijiang dish, capturing the hearts of scholars, farmers, workers, and merchants alike, lingering in the dreams of handsome guys and beautiful girls. Currently, with the deepening of the Western Development initiative, many insightful individuals are planning to hold an annual “Wine-Scented Bug Culture Festival” in Suijiang every October. I believe that given time, Suijiang’s “Wine-Scented Bug Culture” will surely break out of Suijiang, capturing both domestic and international markets. Strange indeed, Suijiang—beautiful, the wine-scented bug.