The Pot

The Pot

　　Every year during the Qingming Festival and the ninth lunar month, Tengchong holds two grand ancestral worship and tomb-sweeping ceremonies. At that time, the elders of each family come out to recite a prayer, expressing reverence and deep sorrow for the departed.

　　Once all the rituals are completed, it’s time to comfort everyone’s stomachs—especially the children, who definitely aren’t interested in matters of the underworld. What they look forward to most is the mouthwatering “pot” after playing around in the hills and fields all day. This is the most important offering in the ceremony and the undisputed star of the day.

　　Making “the pot” is a rather elaborate process, with most of the ingredients needing to be prepared several days in advance. For instance, “yellow skin” is usually made by scraping and cleaning leftover pork skin, then drying it in the sun. There are also bamboo shoot slices, which are processed early in the spring season—thick bamboo shoots are peeled layer by layer, undergo a curing process such as nitrate treatment for preservation, and are then stored for everyday use. The preparation methods for these two foods are similar: once taken out, they are first soaked in cold water overnight. The next day, after they’ve softened, they are taken out and boiled in hot water, then spread out one by one on a mat board, and sliced thinly using a knife, as if making “very thin slices”—the thinner, the better, as it cooks faster and absorbs flavors more readily. The third item is egg rolls. Beat eggs until frothy, then oil the edges of a hot pan. Use a spoon to scoop up the egg mixture and quickly swirl it across the pan’s surface (the thinner the better—though the center must not be left uncoated, otherwise it will be uneven; also, there should be no gaps). Once set, remove the egg sheet like a handkerchief and let it cool. Take lean meat, mince it into filling, and evenly spread it about one centimeter thick on the egg sheet. Then roll it into a log about three centimeters wide, and slice it into small pieces. Other ingredients are relatively simple: in the morning, go to the market to buy some greens and taro, as well as a few pounds of pork leg bones (locally called “tube bones”) and a few pounds of streaky pork. Bring them back and boil the bones to make a clear broth. Wash the greens and taro, cut them up, and cook them in the broth until about 60% done, then set them aside off the heat. Cut the streaky pork into four-centimeter squares, mix a suitable amount of wheat flour with eggs to form a paste, dip the pork slices into this mixture to coat them, and then fry them in oil over low heat until golden brown. This creates the “crispy pork.”

　　Once all the ingredients are ready, it’s time to take out the earthenware pot used for cooking the vegetables. It may not look like much, being a rather plain-looking clay pot fired in a rural kiln. (Fans of soccer might recall the shape of the Asian Cup trophy—I find it looks very much like our earthen pot, except that our pot has an extra half-tube protruding from the middle where charcoal is added.)

　　Now everything is in place. First, add salt, MSG, tsao-ko powder, and other seasonings to the already-cooked soup and vegetables, then place them in the earthen pot. Next, layer the ingredients inside the pot in sequence—starting with the crispy pork, then bamboo shoot slices, and yellow skin—spreading them evenly. Finally, place the egg rolls on top and garnish with a few chopped scallions.

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　　Generally speaking, by the time the “pot” is brought up the mountain and all the ceremonies are completed, it’s ready to eat. If you’re making it at home, it usually needs to simmer in the pot for about three hours, keeping the heat steady throughout. Too low won’t do—the taro won’t be tender. Too high is also no good—not only will the taro remain tough, but if you burn off the original broth and have to add more, you’ll essentially ruin everything. The most authentic term for “the pot” is “stewed pot.” The semi-cooked, tender texture is called “fork-ready.”

　　“The pot” is quite a versatile dish suited to various palates—this I’ve confirmed through the feedback of diners from many different regions. For those who aren’t afraid of a bit of effort, you can try making it yourself. Just keep in mind: besides managing the heat properly, the proportions of each ingredient must be balanced. You can use more vegetables, but the meats should be fewer and of higher quality. Making the broth the right way is the single most crucial first step. You might not have access to an earthen pot, but a regular metal hot pot can be used as a substitute—though it won’t truly be called a “stewed pot” anymore. Here, we call this version “pot-style dish!” A comforting alternative name.

　　Let me share a little tip with you.

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　　The pot-style dish tastes even better when it’s hot. So, making a bit extra isn’t a problem. Of course, enjoying every delicious meal accompanied by fascinating folk tales will undoubtedly leave you with even sweeter and more memorable experiences.