Tripe

Tripe

　　Tripe is a famous Beijing-style snack, mostly operated by Hui ethnic vendors. Records of tripe can be traced back to the Qianlong era of the Qing Dynasty. In the past and even now, during late autumn and early winter, tripe is served in Beijing’s halal restaurants and street stalls. Notable spots include “Tripe Shi” at Tianqiao, “Tripe Yang” in Menkuai Hutong, as well as “Tripe Feng” and “Tripe Man.”

Tripe is made by cleaning and slicing fresh beef or sheep stomach (such as omasum and belly flap), then blanching it in boiling water. It is served with a dipping sauce made of oil, sesame paste, vinegar, chili oil, fermented tofu sauce, chopped coriander, and scallions. The texture is tender and the flavor is crispy and fragrant.

In the past, the preparation of sheep tripe was very particular. Ingredients were selected and processed according to different parts of the sheep’s stomach, such as belly board, belly gourd, belly san dan, belly mushroom, and belly kernel, allowing customers to choose their preferred part. Cooking time varied depending on the tenderness of the part— the most tender parts could be cooked in just a few seconds. In recent years, due to high demand, the perishability of fresh tripe, and difficulties in sourcing fresh ingredients, restaurants or stalls that serve tripe by specific parts have almost disappeared.

Aside from the freshness of the tripe, the key to good tripe lies in the “blanching” process. The timing must be perfect; undercooked or overcooked tripe will either be too raw or too tough, and may even be hard to chew. As noted in *Yandu Xiaoshi Pin Zayong* (Miscellaneous Poems on Snacks in the Capital): “A moment in the broth and it warms slightly, served with a full set of condiments and a drink. Even with blunt teeth, one can't fully chew it—just swallow it whole.” It also says: “Raw sheep tripe cut into small cubes is briefly blanched in hot water, then served with a dip of soy sauce, scallion, vinegar, and sesame paste. Since the tripe isn’t fully cooked, it remains extremely crisp. Diners often can’t chew it and simply swallow it whole.” Therefore, its quality standard is “crisp and tender,” and the cooking time must be carefully adjusted for different parts.

In the past, tripe was almost exclusively sold by Hui people, and the sheep tripe had to be slaughtered and cleaned by Hui butchers. Any tainted-smelling tripe was discarded, earning great trust among customers. Especially popular among Peking opera stars, famous performers like Mei Lanfang, Ma Lianliang, Xiao Mógu, Xiao Baiyushuang, and Li Wanchun all loved tripe. Crisp and fresh, not greasy, tripe is said to even help with stomach ailments. Those who eat tripe often enjoy a couple of ounces of liquor with it, followed by two freshly baked sesame buns—a true delight. That’s why old Beijingers love tripe, especially after the Start of Autumn in the lunar calendar, when there’s a saying: “To eat autumn, have tripe.”

Records of tripe date back to the Qianlong era of the Qing Dynasty, and it has mostly been operated by Hui people. Well-known spots in Beijing include “Tripe Shi” at Tianqiao, “Tripe Wang” at Dong’an Market, “Tripe Zhang” near the Back Gate, as well as “Tripe Yang,” “Tripe Feng,” and “Tripe Man.”

In the past, the preparation of sheep tripe was very particular, with different parts such as belly board, belly gourd, belly san dan, belly mushroom, and belly kernel being selected and processed based on customer choice. Cooking times also varied by part. Recently, due to its popularity and the difficulty of ensuring fresh supply, serving by specific parts like before no longer exists. Aside from freshness, the key to tripe lies in the blanching process—the timing must be just right. Crisp and fresh, those who enjoy tripe with drinks usually have a couple of ounces of liquor and follow it with two freshly baked sesame buns. Especially in old Beijing, there’s a saying: “To eat autumn, have tripe,” highlighting the custom of eating it around the Start of Autumn. Renowned Peking opera stars like Mei Lanfang, Ma Lianliang, Xiao Mógu, Xiao Baiyushuang, and Li Wanchun were all big fans of tripe.