Yuhuo Salted Fish

Yuhuo Salted Fish

　　When it comes to local cuisine, if you visit Jinping County in Qiandongnan Prefecture without trying “Yuhuo Salted Fish,” then you’ve come for nothing... Why is that? Because not only is “Yuhuo Salted Fish” one of Jinping County’s signature specialties, but it is also widely loved by consumers throughout Qiandongnan and even the entire province of Guizhou. Its appeal lies in its unique craftsmanship and flavor, which is simply mouthwatering. Produced in the scenic Qing Shan Jie area of Hekou Township in Jinping County, this delicacy has been lovingly processed and enjoyed by the hardworking Miao and Dong communities for hundreds of years. Utilizing the region’s distinctive climate and water resources, it is made using a unique recipe and entirely handmade processes. It is a well-known local specialty in the Qiandongnan region, boasting a flavor that is sweet and sour with a perfectly balanced level of spice. It has a rich, aromatic taste, with a texture that is pure and robust, and an overall truly distinctive character.

　　It is said that a popular folk rhyme still circulates in the Hekou area of Jinping today: “When guests come any season, I’ve no worries at all; for fresh fish, check the fields; for dried fish, look on the kang (heated bed); and for salted fish, just check the barrel.” This shows the warm hospitality of the people of Jinping. Speaking of salted fish, while it is indeed a unique and common dish among the ethnic minority regions of Guizhou, the flavor varies depending on the specific location within the same region. In the case of the Hekou Miao villages in Jinping County, the making and flavor profile of salted fish are truly distinctive. Especially renowned is the “Yuhuo Salted Fish,” which, compared to ordinary salted fish, not only shares the typical sour, spicy, and fragrant qualities but also adds a subtle sweetness within the sourness and a spice that doesn’t cause excessive heat. It fills the air with an inviting aroma, with tender yet chewy meat that is refreshing and delightful—once tasted, it’s unforgettable. Moreover, unlike the simpler process of making basic barrel-fermented salted fish, the production of “Yuhuo Salted Fish” is intricate and meticulous, particularly when it comes to the selection of containers and the precise measurement of ingredients.

　　Speaking of which, many of you might be wondering how it’s actually made. Now, let’s take a closer look at the production process of Yuhuo Salted Fish. First is the crafting of the salted fish barrel, which must be a properly sized cedar wood barrel—locally called a “salted barrel”—specially made by local carpenters. The barrel must be made from aged cedar wood; no other types of wood can be used, as different wood types would affect the flavor and cause an undesirable mingling of tastes. Moreover, the size must be just right: too large and there won’t be enough ventilation, affecting the storage duration; too small and the fish will not ferment properly, lacking fragrance. The bottom must have air holes to help control the temperature and humidity during fermentation.

　　Next comes ingredient selection, including both the type and size of the fish. Before the autumn harvest, fish are caught from the rice fields and kept in clean water for a day or two to allow them to expel any internal waste. Then, the fish are butterflied, cleaned of internal organs, and soaked in salt for about three days before being drained. Next, glutinous rice, chili powder, special spices, and sweet wine yeast are evenly mixed and layered with the fish in the dark barrel. A proper amount of seasoning is sprinkled on top, then pressed down before adding another layer. This process continues until the barrel is filled to about four-fifths of its capacity. Each layer is handled according to specific steps, and once completed, the barrel is sealed and placed in a ventilated, shaded spot. Typically, after 45 days of tight pressing, the fish is ready to eat. However, the real maturation period for Yuhuo Salted Fish can be as short as six months or as long as two to three years. Like aging wine, the longer it is stored, the richer the flavor becomes. Over time, the fragrance wafting from the barrel grows increasingly intense. Experienced farmers can even tell the maturity level of the salted fish just by the smell. Once fully matured, when the barrel lid is removed and the fish taken out, the seasoning has fully penetrated the fish, giving off a refreshing and fragrant aroma. The meat is light red in color, and the whole fish has slightly shrunk from its original shape—like a piece of moist, tender paper. It doesn’t drip or feel slippery. Just tear off a piece and put it in your mouth, and you’ll experience the authentic flavor of Yuhuo Salted Fish—so rich and soothing it excites the appetite and invigorates the senses.

　　Now that we’ve discussed the making of “Yuhuo Salted Fish,” let’s take a casual look at how it’s eaten. Actually, eating Yuhuo Salted Fish isn’t much different from eating ordinary salted fish. Young folks enjoy eating it raw—it’s incredibly flavorful, fresh, and sweet on the palate. People of all ages prefer frying it, yielding a sour and crispy taste.

　　Today, “Yuhuo Salted Fish” has become a branded specialty of Jinping. Demand exceeds supply. If you’re lucky enough to visit Jinping and get to taste authentic “Yuhuo Salted Fish,” consider yourself fortunate. That’s the famous “Yuhuo Salted Fish” from Jinping County in Qiandongnan. Feeling hungry yet? Then be sure to pay a visit to the rustic, cedar-filled land of Jinping County in Qiandongnan when you have the time. (By Pan Jiangping)

　　The current administrative region of Jinping County, Guizhou Province, includes the towns of Sanjiang, Maoping, Tonggu, Dunzhai, Xinhua, Longli, Zhongling, Ouli, Pinglue, Qimeng, Hekou, Guben, Pingqiu, and the townships of Yan dong.

　　“Letter from the People's Government of Jinping County Regarding the Delineation of the Geographical Indication Protection Area for Yuhuo Salted Fish” – Jinping Government Document [2016] No. 32