Heartbroken Cold Noodles

Heartbroken Cold Noodles

　　The name “Heartbroken Cold Noodles” is more than just a marketing hook. The Hakka people are an Eastern migrant group originating from the Central Plains, a branch of the Han ethnic group, who endured hundreds of years of displacement and a life of hardship. They worked from sunrise to sunset, and at night, after a long day’s toil, what people looked forward to was gathering together for “zhe fan” (Hakka for “eating a meal”), during which one dish—the tear-inducing cold noodles—would often move diners to tears as they missed their loved ones far away. This is the origin of the name “Heartbroken Cold Noodles.”

The main ingredients of “Heartbroken Cold Noodles” are sweet potato starch and pea starch, ground using an old stone mill, resulting in a rich aroma and a tender, melt-in-your-mouth texture. A small bowl of “Heartbroken Cold Noodles” requires 13 different seasonings before serving, and the seasonings differ between hot and cold versions. There is also a specific order in which these 13 seasonings should be added.

“Heartbroken Cold Noodles” do not use soy sauce or vinegar. Mr. Yang pointed to a dark brown, paste-like substance and explained that this is the savory seasoning paste, made using a family-secret recipe. Next comes the chili oil, produced through a special process that gives it a unique flavor. Finally, bright red fresh chili pepper powder (referred to by the Hakka as “mustard pepper”) is added as the finishing touch. Though the chili burns your tongue and the Sichuan peppercorns numb your mouth, diners still enjoy a delightful eating experience—hence the name, “eat it and feel heartbroken, enjoy it and feel delighted, come back again and feel reassured.”