Clay Pot Ya Fish
Ya Fish is an important edible fish found in the Zhougong River of Ya'an, scientifically named Schizothorax prenanti, also known as Jia Fish. It was historically called Bingxue Fish. Known for its tender meat, few bones, and delicate texture, it is considered one of the finest freshwater fish used in Sichuan cuisine.
The great Tang Dynasty poet Du Fu once wrote: “The fish from Bingxue Cave has long been known for its fine taste; the wine from Pitan needs no purchase,” praising the excellence of Ya Fish. Ya'an City in Sichuan Province is home to restaurants specializing in Ya Fish. Reflecting the historical dietary customs of Ya'an, which emphasize nutrition, health, and rich, original flavors, clay pot cooking is commonly used. The clay pots used are fired using “Baishan Clay” from Rongjing County. Cooking Ya Fish in these clay pots results in a delicious flavor and excellent heat retention.
“Clay Pot Ya Fish” is a savory and umami-flavored dish, often served as the final “grand finale” in banquets. In recent years, it has been introduced as the opening dish to delight diners. When served, the clay pot remains bubbling, filling the air with a rich aroma. The fish is tender, the broth is fresh, and the dish is highly nutritious, leaving visitors to Ya'an—the Rain City—with lifelong, unforgettable memories.
Wild Ya Fish mostly inhabit the Zhougong River, a tributary of the Qingyi River, where the water is clear, the current is strong, and the temperature is ideal. However, in recent years, due to the development of cascade hydropower projects, the ecological environment of the Zhougong River has changed, leading to a rapid decline in wild Ya Fish populations. Fortunately, thanks to the efforts of Sichuan Agricultural University and local aquaculture institutions, artificial breeding techniques for Ya Fish were successfully developed in 2000. Today, the vast majority of Ya Fish on the market are farmed, while the very limited wild Ya Fish can be about two-thirds more expensive.
For a long time, Clay Pot Ya Fish has been the most traditional way to prepare Ya Fish. The clay pots used come from Yingjing County under the jurisdiction of Ya'an City. Yingjing clayware has over 2,000 years of firing history, and the handmade black clay pottery technique of Yingjing was included in the National Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2008. When making Clay Pot Ya Fish, a rich broth simmered with pork knuckle, native chicken, and pork bone is poured into the clay pot and brought to a boil. Meanwhile, the Ya Fish is pan-fried until the skin curls on both sides, then placed into the pot along with bamboo shoots, bamboo fungus, native chicken, pork tripe, tofu, and other ingredients. The dish is then brought to a boil. Three main factors determine the quality: the richness of the broth, the proper proportion of fish to other ingredients, and the control of cooking heat—typically 5 to 10 minutes depending on the size of the fish and the quantity of ingredients.
In recent years, incorporating techniques from modern Sichuan cuisine, Ya Fish dishes have continued to evolve. In 2005, during the Third Sichuan Tourism Development Conference held in Ya'an, a chef innovatively created a full-course Ya Fish menu for the first time, with 18 dishes that caused a sensation. Today, the Ya Fish full-course menu has expanded to 20 dishes, 14 of which feature Ya Fish as the main ingredient. Examples include: Ya Fish sashimi platter, five-spice smoked Ya Fish, curious-flavor fish steak, three-color Ya Fish skin, Clay Pot Ya Fish hotpot, and dry-braised Ya Fish.
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