Beijing Milk Curd

Beijing Milk Curd

　　In the Qing Dynasty work *Miscellaneous Poems of the Capital*, a bamboo-branch-style poem vividly describes it: “Leisurely sip a bowl on the street, / A nectar that soothes the parched throat’s heat. / Swallowing feels like sliding fat so sleek, / Cool as autumn, refreshing and unique.” This short poem perfectly captures the essence of this frost-like, jade-like milk curd. As a distinctive Beijing snack, milk curd historically originated as a food of the Mongolian people. Even after it entered Beijing, it remained exclusive to the imperial courts of the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties before gradually spreading to the general public.

　　Back in the day, there was a “Fengshenggong” milk curd shop inside Dong’an Market. The owner, surnamed He, was a member of the Manchu Plain Yellow Banner. For generations, his family had relied on government stipends, but after the Xinhai Revolution, those “lifelong rice eaters” like him were left without support. However, He Zizhao was a resourceful man. He managed to establish his own dairy farm in the countryside through hard work, and even sought out the secret recipe for making milk curd from a former imperial chef who had once worked in the Qing palace kitchens. With that, he rented a shop in Dong’an Market and specialized in selling milk curd. At the time, there were no cold drink shops on the streets—let alone ice cream or popsicles—so milk curd enjoyed a monopoly-like presence in the capital, practically unrivaled. Every summer, the young masters and misses from noble households, as well as former Qing dynasty officials and their descendants, flocked to “Fengshenggong” as loyal customers.

　　After the “Fengshenggong” milk curd shop opened in Dong’an Market, more curd workshops began to emerge across Beijing, producing milk curd in bulk to supply street vendors who carried it around in shoulder poles. On summer evenings in old Beijing’s hutongs, one could often hear the vendors’ cries: “Yo-ho, come try some curd…”

　　— Historical Tales of Beijing Milk Curd —

　　In the early years of Emperor Guangxu’s reign during the Qing Dynasty, the founder of milk curd, Wei Hongchen, learned the craft from imperial chefs in the palace. His skills won widespread praise, earning him the esteemed title “Milk Curd Wei.” The Wei family’s specialty was crafting “upside-down bowl curd”—a kind of milk curd so thick that it wouldn’t spill even if the bowl was turned upside down. Initially, they only sold milk curd at the entrances of all the theaters in Qianmen’s Dashilar area. By the 14th year of Guangxu’s reign (1888), they rented a storefront on the west side of Dashilar Hutong, naming it “Linji Curd Shop.” They sold milk curd year-round, and Milk Curd Wei excelled in making stir-fried curd jerky, milk rolls, and traditional milk curd.

　　Traditional milk curd production involves baking in wooden barrels and cooling with ice. In the past, the Wei family’s large wooden barrel had a diameter of about 80 centimeters, was about 60 centimeters tall, and had an iron base. Each layer could hold 10 bowls, stacked up to six layers, yielding as many as 60 bowls per barrel. In the writings of Liang Shiqiu, it is also recorded: “I personally am quite wary of drinking milk… But I do enjoy curd. There are curd shops… The most famous one was located on the north side of Kuanger Hutong, just west of the front street. I can’t recall its name. Their curd had rich, fresh milk, giving it a uniquely delicious taste. The ones served in big bowls with fruit were especially good—the curd had melon seeds inside, offering something to chew on besides the smooth swallow, which added a special flavor. Every time I passed by, I would definitely have two bowls.” “Those who have lived in Beiping for a long time inevitably develop cravings for its foods, and curd is one of them.” Before liberation, besides Liang Shiqiu, notable figures such as Puyi’s brother Pu Jie, Lu Xun, Lao She, and Hu Juiqing were all regulars at the Milk Curd Wei shop. Figures from the Beijing opera scene were no exception, with many being devoted patrons.