Dàoliúshuǐ Dòufu Gān (Dried Tofu from Dàoliúshuǐ)

Dàoliúshuǐ Dòufu Gān (Dried Tofu from Dàoliúshuǐ)

　　“Dàoliúshuǐ” — located in the northwest corner of Shizhu Tujia Autonomous County, it is now the site of the Liúshuǐ Administrative Village Committee of Dàxiē Town (formerly the seat of the Phoenix Township Government of Shizhu County). It comprises five administrative groups with a total population of over 1,500, more than 1,300 of whom are Tujia people, accounting for over 90%. The area spans approximately 20 square kilometers, situated at an altitude of nearly 1,000 meters, at the junction of Zhong (County), Fēng (Du), and Shí (Zhu) counties, bordering Shízǐ Township and Tónghé Township of Zhong County, as well as Tàiyùn Township and Lóngkǒng Township of Fēngdu County. The Dàoliúshuǐ market town has a history of holding markets (currently on the 2nd, 5th, and 8th days of each month) since before liberation. Its terrain is divided into an upper street and a lower street, where the natural flow of water on the lower street and the direction of rainwater runoff from rooftops on the upper street form a reverse (Y-shaped) pattern, hence the historical name “Dàoliúshuǐ” (Reversed Flowing Water), later shortened to “Liúshuǐ” (Flowing Water).

　　It is recorded that Dàoliúshuǐ Dòufu Gān originated in the late Qing Dynasty, with a history of over a hundred years. At that time, the market town was home to over 20 households, all Tujia people, numbering around 100. Located 45 li from the county seat, it served as a crucial gateway for Shizhu entering the mountains and reaching the river (Yangtze River). With no roads at the time, transportation was extremely inconvenient, relying mainly on manpower to carry goods through Dàoliúshuǐ to Yangdù (Xī) Township and Wūyáng Town in Zhong County, which were the final stops before the river. As a result, this market town became an important inn for travelers. After the long trek up and down the mountains from the county seat, travelers would arrive at Dàoliúshuǐ just in time for “bēijiǎozi” (porters) and market-goers to rest for the night. In the evenings, the whole market bustled with business, a continuous flow of people, the shouts of vendors, the sounds of drinking games and toasts, and the calls of those settling in for the night. Due to varying arrival times, some even stayed up all night, with lights shining brightly (some travelers carried lanterns, others torches). At that time, food shops and inns in Dàoliúshuǐ had the habit of selling dried tofu. In the evening, porters would roast it over hot embers until the skin bubbled, then stick it with dried chili powder as a drinking snack, accompanied by a couple of ounces of “shāojiǔ” (liquor) to relieve the day’s fatigue. The next day, they would continue on to the riverside (Yangdù Xī) and bring back what they needed, resting here before returning to the county seat. Over time, porters traveling from all directions and market-goers coming and going brought some dried tofu as provisions for the road, while others bought some to take back for family and friends as gifts. Gradually, Dàoliúshuǐ Dòufu Gān gained fame in the surrounding areas, earning widespread praise. Over the years, it became a renowned local specialty. The century-long history of Dàoliúshuǐ Dòufu Gān also encompasses rich local culture, as reflected in folk rhymes: “Yellow beans, yellow beans so bright, stored in the house filling the barn, made into dried tofu to trade for grain, Second Sister’s heart is full of delight.” “Dried tofu, square and neat, ground at cock’s crow three times sweet, by noon when the sun shines bright, guests arrive to take a bite.” “Dried tofu, tender and yellow, ‘Mum’ (local term for mother) busy all year long, welcoming and seeing off hurrying guests, spreading the fine name of Liúshuǐ far and wide.” “Dried tofu, fragrant and strong, travelers take it far and long, buy some to give to kin and song, a snack for the road to keep hunger gone” (Tujia people refer to gifts as “gānpán”).

　　Dàoliúshuǐ Dòufu Gān is “traditionally made, refined with spring water, and crafted with meticulous care.” Its production involves ten steps: the raw material must be locally sourced spring soybeans; soaking (first cracking the soybeans, then soaking them in water for about two hours); stone grinding (grinding the soybeans into raw slurry); boiling the slurry (boiling it twice); filtering (using a tofu cloth to filter); coagulating (using brine to coagulate); molding (placing the tofu cloth in a fixed wooden frame with a 25-grid square compartment); pressing (placing a 20-kilogram water bucket or equally heavy stone on the mold lid); seasoning (adding ingredients according to a Tujia secret recipe); slicing (cutting the tofu into eight-centimeter square pieces in a four-by-four grid, each 2-millimeter thick); and smoking (placing the tofu pieces on a bamboo mat and smoking them with low corn cob fire until slightly dry and golden). The entire process takes over ten hours, typically starting with soaking the beans in the latter half of the night until dawn, then grinding them into slurry before proceeding with the subsequent steps. Smoking, in particular, requires careful control of the fire—no open flames are allowed—and takes about three hours. The entire production process demands precision at every step, such as the fineness of the slurry, boiling the slurry twice, wrapping to the edge, pressing with appropriate force, the composition of seasonings, moisture levels, and the degree of smoking. The key lies in the spring water from Longdong Well in the bamboo forest on the mountainside near the Shuǐjǐngwān area of the Dàoliúshuǐ market town. In summer, the water is ice-cold and refreshing, providing a cool sensation to passersby who stop to drink and quench their thirst. The tofu made with this water has a unique flavor, delicate texture, fragrant aroma, and delightful taste. It is an excellent choice for eating or gifting, and can be sliced, shredded, or cubed for stir-frying, cold mixing, blanching, or roasting, all of which are highly popular. Trying the fresh tofu pudding from Dàoliúshuǐ is also a unique experience, known for its delicate and smooth texture. Nowadays, many city dwellers visit in the summer to enjoy tofu feasts.

　　Dàoliúshuǐ Dòufu Gān (Dried Tofu from Dàoliúshuǐ)

　　 Dàoliúshuǐ Dòufu Gān Professional Economic Association, Dàxiē Town, Shizhu Tujia Autonomous County

　　 10807321

　　 Dòufu Gān (Tofu Product)