Quanzhou Fermented Black Beans

Quanzhou Fermented Black Beans

　　The history of making fermented black beans in Quanzhou County dates back to the mid-Tang Dynasty, around the same time as the creation of “Quanzhou’s No. 1 Fragrance,” the Five-Spice Dried Tofu.

　　Legend has it that the first person to make fermented black beans was a bean merchant (whose name has been lost to history) who ran a shop specializing in beans on Xiaonanmen Street in Jianshe Street, Quanzhou Town, during the mid-Tang Dynasty. One day, over a hundred pounds of beans that had not dried completely were left out to dry in the sun, but suddenly a heavy rain fell. The beans couldn’t be collected in time and got completely soaked. It rained for two more days, and the beans, which had started to sprout, were in danger of going bad. The merchant told his wife to steam the beans and serve them as a meal. After eating them for two meals, neither the merchant nor his employees wanted to eat them anymore. With no sign of clearing weather, the beans were stored in a barrel. The rainy weather continued for over ten days, and everyone forgot about the beans until one day, a very peculiar fragrance began to waft through the house. Upon investigation, they found that the smell came from the forgotten barrel of steamed beans. When they looked inside the barrel, they saw that the beans hadn’t rotted but had instead grown light green fuzz and emitted a strange fragrance. The merchant asked his assistant to take the beans to the river to wash them and then dry them in the sun. But before half an hour had passed, another rainstorm hit, so the assistant had no choice but to put the beans back in the barrel. By the time the rain stopped and the sun came out three days later, when they took the beans out again, they had fermented and were steaming hot. The second fermentation made the beans even darker and gave them an even stronger aroma. Worried that the fermented beans might not be hygienic, the merchant’s wife scooped out a small bowl, added some wine, and steamed them. Unexpectedly, this process produced what came to be known as “Floodwater (Red Water) Fermented Black Beans from Xiaonanmen.” Adding a bit of salt turned them into a delicious side dish. Later, she tried using the beans to make soup, and the soup turned out refreshing with a faint red hue and a great taste. When used as an ingredient in cooking, it significantly enhanced the flavor of the dishes. In this way, Quanzhou Fermented Black Beans were accidentally created. The bean merchant then changed professions and opened Quanzhou’s first fermented black bean workshop, taking on apprentices to pass on the craft. The knowledge was then passed down from generation to generation to this day.

　　Quanzhou Fermented Black Beans are not only fragrant, low-cost, and highly nutritious, but they have also been beloved by the public throughout history. Over time, their reputation spread far and wide, and they are now exported to regions such as Taiwan, Hong Kong, Japan, and Southeast Asia.

　　Quanzhou Fermented Black Beans are known as a famous agricultural product brand of Guilin City and are a key ingredient in Guilin Chili Sauce or Fermented Black Bean Sauce. The product has been featured in dedicated product introductions on regional and national websites such as the “Guangxi Agricultural Products Trade Network.” Since the beans were first fermented in Xiaonanmen, Quanzhou, there has long been a saying: “Xiaonanmen Fermented Black Beans — just one dou (a traditional unit of measure)!” This is an old phrase praising the fermented black beans of Xiaonanmen in Quanzhou, meaning that although there are many fermented black bean producers across the region, the best ones come from Xiaonanmen. In neighboring counties of Hunan close to Quanzhou, there is also an old proverb: “Quanzhou Fermented Black Beans and Xinning Sauce — together, they perfume the world.” In the past decade, due to the expansion of urban development in the county seat, most fermented black bean processing plants have moved to Shitang Town. Shitang Town currently has over 50 medium and small-sized fermented black bean processing plants, producing nearly 1,000 tons of fermented black beans annually, with a price of 8–10 yuan per kilogram. These beans are a key branded agricultural product promoted by the town. The production techniques of Quanzhou Fermented Black Beans are inherited from the traditional methods of Xiaonanmen in Quanzhou. The basic steps of the process are as follows:

　　1. Selecting Beans. Choose high-quality local beans from the current or previous year’s harvest (black-skinned clay beans are the best), remove any impurities, and place them in a steamer.

　　2. Steaming. Fix a wide-mouthed iron pot (known locally in Quanzhou as a zhaoba pot) over the stove, fill it two-thirds full with water, and place a large wooden steamer bucket (with a grated bottom lined with white cotton cloth) on top of the pot. Pour in the beans, cover, and steam. The steaming process takes about 2–3 hours. During steaming, stir the beans once from top to bottom. When the fragrance fills the room and the black beans are thoroughly cooked, stop heating.

　　3. Soaking. While the beans are still hot, pour them into a special soaking pool. Add an appropriate amount of green salt (to promote fermentation and darken the color of the beans — about 0.3–0.4 kg of green salt per 100 kg of beans). The water should cover the beans (ideally just enough to be absorbed when the beans are fully soaked). Remove the beans when they are plump and translucent (after about 2 hours).

　　4. Fermentation. Once the soaked beans have cooled (they’re still very hot when first taken out), pile them on a yellow-earth floor (a designated fermentation area, slightly raised and smoothed, about 5 inches to 1 foot above ground level). Cover them with clean straw mats or burlap sacks (not necessary in very hot weather), and let them ferment. Stir them once after two days, and then once daily for the next five or six days. The total fermentation period should be no less than seven days. Stop fermenting when the beans are covered with light green yeast fuzz and emit a fragrant aroma.

　　5. Washing. Place the fermented beans in large baskets and carry them to a river for washing. While washing, stir them continuously in one direction to clean them thoroughly, then drain the water.

　　6. Second Fermentation. After draining, spread the beans on bamboo mats, encircle them with bamboo fencing, and cover them to ferment for another two days. Once the beans develop a richer aroma and darker color, they are ready.

　　7. Drying. Place the fermented beans on bamboo mats to dry in the sun. They are ready for sale when, upon squeezing a handful and then releasing it, the beans naturally separate.

　　Note: After the second fermentation, the beans can also be steamed: sprinkle some rice wine over the fermented beans, steam them in a wooden steamer for about 20 minutes after steam appears, then remove and let cool for storage. This type of fermented black bean is called Floodwater Fermented Black Beans. Their grains are moist, fragrantly sweet, and make excellent cooking ingredients, enhancing the flavor and color of dishes and soups. However, they do not keep as long as sun-dried beans. This method is rarely used today, and most commercially available products are sun-dried.

　　Product Features: Loose grains, strong fragrance, soft and easy to crumble without a core, dark with a glossy sheen. A great condiment for gourmet dishes, with a sweet aftertaste. Adding refined salt and high-proof rice wine can extend shelf life.

　　Information Source: Quanzhou County People’s Government Website