Longsheng Fish Sashimi

Longsheng Fish Sashimi

　　A region’s soil gives birth to its unique cuisine. The clear, sweet waters of the Xun River in Longsheng yield tender fish, which, when made into sashimi, are crisp, refreshing, and delicious—so much so that nearly every household in Longsheng enjoys fish sashimi.

　　 Longsheng fish sashimi has a history of nearly a hundred years. The county is predominantly inhabited by the Dong ethnic group, who are fond of sour flavors, with dishes like sour duck and sour pork being common. Legend has it that long ago, the Dong people arrived in Piaoli Town, Longsheng County. At the time, they had no mountains or farmland and relied solely on fishing for survival. Piaoli Town is rich in water resources and home to a variety of fish species. Fishermen often returned with full hauls, selling most of their catch at the market while keeping some for personal consumption. Even so, they still had an abundance of fish. Leftover fish would spoil easily, so to extend its shelf life, the Dong people adapted the method of curing sour meat to make sour fish. This preserved the fish and prevented it from turning bad. Initially, curing fish was simply a storage solution, but over time, the Dong discovered that eating the fish raw was even better—and that adding sour flavors enhanced its taste even more.

　　 Acidic pickling jars are essential in every Dong household. The Dong found that soaking fish in pickled watercress brine and eating it raw resulted in a flavor even more exquisite than that of cured sour fish. Word spread from village to township, and soon, the practice of eating fish sashimi became widespread. Back then, the way locals in Piaoli ate fish sashimi was slightly different from how it’s done today. When they caught small fish around the size of a finger—known as “chuan tiao zi”—they would place the fish on a cutting board, stun it with a knife strike, remove the innards, and soak it in the watercress brine for ten minutes before eating it whole. This seemingly simple and rustic method of eating fish sashimi is actually where the dish originated.

　　 Today, preparation methods vary greatly depending on individual taste preferences.

　　 The people of Longsheng take pride in living along the Xun River. As the largest river in the area, the Xun River is known for its pristine waters and scenic beauty. The fish raised in the Xun River have tender flesh and no fishy aftertaste, making it the locals’ favorite choice for making fish sashimi.

　　 In Longsheng, it’s safe to say almost every household loves eating fish sashimi. Whether guests come to visit or during festivals, the locals will head to the market to buy one or two fresh live fish, then prepare the sashimi themselves at home.

　　 Steps to prepare fish sashimi:

　　 First, choose your fish. Opt for live carp (or grass carp) from a river with clean, unpolluted, flowing water. The fish should be healthy, dark grayish in color, free of scars or disease spots, and about one kilogram (two pounds) each.

　　 Next, stun the fish, drain its blood, and swiftly remove the scales with a knife. Then quickly gut it, remove the head, debone, and peel the skin. With swift knife work, eliminate moisture and bloodstains, then slice the fish into pieces about the width of three fingers and as thin as cicada wings. A skilled hand can slice out a whole plate of sashimi in just one minute. If the cuts are too heavy or the knife isn’t sharp enough, the flavor may be compromised.

　　 What sets Longsheng fish sashimi apart from others is the step of briefly dipping it in a special sauce before eating. The sauce is meticulously prepared, consisting of special watercress (jiao tou) acid water, ginger, chili, peanuts, the local specialty “monster fish herb” (which emits a unique deodorizing aroma), perilla, and cilantro (coriander).

　　 “Fish herb” is a specialty of Longsheng and is hard to find outside the region—which is why Longsheng fish sashimi only tastes truly great when eaten locally. The leaves of fish herb resemble those of fish mint, but they are long and slender, giving off a rich fragrance. It’s not the sweet, cool scent of mint, but rather a fragrance similar to that of cilantro and perilla.

　　 Place the sliced fish sashimi on a plate, garnished with chili, shredded ginger, fish herb, peanuts, cilantro (coriander), and a few drops of raw tea oil (to remove fishiness).

　　 Finally, place the sauce bowl next to the sashimi platter for an appetizing presentation that’s sure to make your mouth water. The sashimi slices only need to be soaked in the special watercress (jiao tou) acid water for 1–3 minutes before eating (adjust time based on preference: 1 minute for a fresher, crisper, and more raw taste; 3 minutes for a softer, tangier flavor; avoid soaking beyond 5 minutes as it will ruin the taste, so work quickly). Once tasted, the translucent, butterfly-like slices of sashimi, infused with the sauce, are incredibly delicious—smooth, crisp, and refreshing.