The flowered waistbands of the Blue Indigo Yao

The flowered waistbands of the Blue Indigo Yao

　　Mocun Xinzhai in Luolou Town, Lingyun County, is a settlement of the ethnic Blue Indigo Yao. The women there have long worn traditional ethnic attire, in which the waistbands carry various symbolic meanings.

　　When we visited Deng Meilian’s home, the warm and hospitable Deng introduced us to the custom of waistband wearing among the women of Mocun Xinzhai: generally, one waistband is paired with one garment. Traditional garments of Blue Indigo Yao women feature only one silver button on the chest, and the waistband serves the function of a button. The waistbands are woven from cotton threads in four colors: white, yellow, red, and black. The yellow is made by boiling local turmeric in water to dye the white threads, which are then dried. The red is created by grinding a local rock known as “red stone” into powder, mixing it with water to dye the white threads, and then drying them. The black is produced by boiling leaves of locally grown indigo in water to dye the white threads, which are then dried.

　　In the village, girls are typically taught by their mothers to weave waistbands between the ages of 9 and 10. It takes about five days to learn the basics, and generally, a waistband can be completed in three days. However, mastering the skill to weave a high-quality waistband takes several years of practice. Waistband weaving usually takes place during June and July each year when the weather is hot. Weaving at home during this time helps avoid the heat and also prevents one’s skin from getting tanned. Younger people may give waistbands to their elders, but elders are not supposed to give waistbands to younger individuals.

　　Women of different ages also have different requirements for the colors at the ends of their waistbands. Unmarried women use dark red threads for the ends of their waistbands, married women use pink-red threads, and women over 60 use white threads. Particularly for young women, weaving waistbands is an essential life skill. The waistbands they weave should have tightly woven, straight lines, giving an impression of reliability, responsibility toward life, and self-sufficiency. Elders view such women as skillful and capable, which makes them more marriageable. During major celebrations in the village or neighboring villages, unmarried young women wear their ethnic garments and tie the best waistband they’ve woven around their waists when attending the festivities. If their handmade waistband earns praise from unmarried young men, it signals that the woman is sought after and is seen as competent and capable in managing a household in the future.

　　A small waistband reflects a rich tapestry of ethnic cultural meaning. In the everyday life of the Blue Indigo Yao, the waistband is truly extraordinary.