Lianzhou Angled Luffa

Lianzhou Angled Luffa

　　Angled luffa is actually what locals in Guangdong call loofah. As for this alternative name, even Li Shizhen’s *Compendium of Materia Medica* doesn’t list it. Naturally, people from other regions find it puzzling—because in Cantonese, the word “si” (丝, for silk/thread) sounds similar to “su” (输, meaning to lose), which is considered inauspicious, especially among those who enjoy playing mahjong, who particularly dislike it. Therefore, it’s said that for this reason, some merchants chose the opposite of “losing” and started calling it “winning melon,” or “胜瓜.”

　　　　Angled luffa holds an important place on summer dining tables. Though not particularly striking in appearance, angled luffa benefits the throat, clears the voice, quenches thirst, aids urination and defecation, and enters the liver and lung meridians. Older angled luffa, also known as luffa vine, is used medicinally for wind-heat type colds, coughs, and excessive phlegm. As for dietary use, angled luffa is both delicious and nutritious. It can be boiled, stir-fried, steamed, or made into soups and stews. Its flavor is mildly sweet, making it ideal for light side dishes. Whether stir-fried with frog, fish floss, beef, pork, shredded chicken, or other meats, the choice is yours—or go upscale with grouper balls or shrimp balls.

　　　　In truth, most people are quite familiar with angled luffa. So what makes the angled luffa from Lianzhou different from those elsewhere? First, in appearance, its skin is a brighter shade of green, with a well-proportioned head and tail. When cut open, its seeds are finer. After the same cooking time, compared to other angled luffas, it has a crisper and sweeter taste, while others tend to become mushy and watery. It’s said this is related to the soil in which it’s grown. Regular angled luffa thrives in fertile, humus-rich soil, whereas Lianzhou has vast mountainous areas, and its irrigation water comes from unpolluted mountain spring water. The soil here is relatively “lean,” and being at the border between Guangdong and Hunan, it experiences large day-night temperature variations, all of which help the Lianzhou angled luffa retain its crisp texture even after prolonged cooking.

　　　　I personally love the mildly sweet flavor and smooth texture of angled luffa, especially when cooked into soupy dishes—the “premium broth simmered” version really highlights the uniqueness of Lianzhou angled luffa. “Simmering in premium broth” refers to the method of poaching food in a generous amount of rich broth. The process is actually very simple: first, enhance the umami of the broth by sautéing a few slices of ginger, some shrimp, and a few chopped onions in oil until fragrant. Once the shrimp is seared, all its aroma is released. Then add water—or you can use ready-made premium stock—and pour in the sliced Lianzhou angled luffa. Since regular angled luffa tends to blacken easily, it’s usually sliced when the soup is almost done, but Lianzhou angled luffa doesn’t blacken and stays bright green, so it can be prepared in advance. Cover the pot and bring it to a boil until cooked. Serve, and you’ve got a refreshing, sweet “premium broth simmered angled luffa”—perfect for summer. Alternatively, try “stir-fried angled luffa with salted ginger zest,” the simplest and most authentic way to enjoy it.

　　　　To buy Lianzhou angled luffa, you’ll need to visit specialty stores selling ingredients from northern Guangdong. The wholesale price is at least 6 yuan per jin. When selecting Lianzhou angled luffa, choose ones that are fresh, firm, shiny, with tender green or light green skin, and plump stem ends without a bloated feel. If the skin is yellowed or withered, or if the luffa body is swollen with spots or dents, it’s overripe and not suitable for eating.