Changzhi Heigetiáo

Changzhi Heigetiáo

　　Heigetiáo is made by wrapping white dough with red dough or vice versa, or mixing them together to form a dough that is hand-rolled into large sheets, then cut into strips about 8 inches long and as wide as Chinese chive leaves or skirt edges, which are then boiled. It is a black-colored noodle dish popular in the Changzhi area. The noodles turn a dark reddish-black when cooked, hence the name “Heigetiáo.” The main ingredient of Heigetiáo is sorghum flour, though adding some wheat flour and bean flour improves the texture.

　　 Sorghum has been cultivated in China for at least 5,000 years. Ancient texts record that sorghum is also known by other names such as "Shushu," "Shushu," "Luheji," "Diliang," "Wuhe," and "Mujì." The Guangya states: “Wuhe is most common in the northern frontier; farmers grow it as a food reserve in case other grains fail.” The Ming Dynasty’s Compendium of Materia Medica by Li Shizhen records: “Shushu is planted in the north… Its cultivation history dates back 4,900 years.” The Complete Book of Agriculture says: “In areas of the north unsuitable for wheat or rice, this crop is grown instead. It is especially suitable for low-lying land. Five days after the beginning of autumn, even if the fields are flooded with water one zhang deep, the crop won’t be ruined.” Page 549 of the Lu’an Prefecture Annals states: “Liang (sorghum) grows well only in Zhangzi and Tunliu.” Due to the favorable geographic conditions, sorghum in the Changzhi area contains rich nutrients such as carbohydrates, protein, fat, phosphorus, calcium, and riboflavin. After removing the husk and grinding, the sorghum is turned into what is commonly called “red flour.” This can be steamed, boiled, or scalded to make a wide variety of noodle dishes, such as Nuoliuliu, Nuopianpian, Zhuyuyu, Zhengkediao, Tibigu, BaoPiBoDe, and Red Flour Steamed Dumplings—traditional farm foods and local snacks. “Red Flour Heigetiáo” is a specialty of Changzhi. These noodles, served with a topping made from pickled mustard greens or wild vegetable pickles, bean sprouts, tofu, and cellophane noodles, offer a uniquely rustic and fragrant taste. Legend has it that Heigetiáo originated during the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty. At that time, the Zezhou region frequently suffered from famine. To survive, locals ground sorghum grains into flour and made a porridge-like paste, which they drank with sour vegetable soup. In Zezhou’s Fengtai, a family surnamed Zhao took in a new daughter-in-law. Five days later, she was to start cooking. Her mother-in-law asked her to make porridge. While stirring the sorghum dough, she accidentally mixed in some bean flour. With no choice but to continue, she ended up with a thick paste. Afraid of upsetting her in-laws, the new daughter-in-law secretly added two handfuls of wheat flour to the dough, kneading it into a firm ball and rolling it out into a large sheet. She then cut it into strips as wide as a skirt edge, boiled them in boiling water, and served them in a bowl with the broth, topped with sour vegetable soup for her in-laws to eat. When they stirred the noodles with their chopsticks and saw they were black, they asked her what was going on. The daughter-in-law told them the truth. To their surprise, the noodles were chewy, smooth, pleasantly tangy, and appetizing. As they ate, they remarked, “These black strips are surprisingly delicious.” From then on, the way of eating Heigetiáo spread among the people of Shangdang. Street vendors also started selling Heigetiáo at markets, earning praise from diners.