Liantan Stuffed Tofu

Liantan Stuffed Tofu

　　Tofu, anciently known as "Li Qi." According to the *Compendium of Materia Medica* by Li Shizhen of the Ming Dynasty, it originated with Liu An, the King of Huainan (179–122 BC). The term "tofu" first appeared in written records during the Song Dynasty. In the late 11th century, Kou Zong’s *Extended Commentary on the Materia Medica* recorded: “Raw soybeans... can also be made into tofu for eating.” The great Song Dynasty poet Su Dongpo wrote, “Boil beans into milk, fat into…” while Lu You, another poet, penned: “Wipe the plate, push the food forward, wash the pot, and boil Li Qi.” Flipping through cookbooks, one finds that there are as many as 400 ways Chinese people prepare tofu at home—truly a dazzling and delightful array.

　　In Yunan, it’s common for ordinary families to make stuffed tofu during festivals or when honored guests visit. The fresh tofu from Liantan is famed across the Xijiang River region and even overseas for its tenderness, smoothness, whiteness, and delicious taste. Hong Kong and Macau compatriots even take some back to share with relatives and friends, a tradition that continues to this day. People also believe that “overnight tofu” has a uniquely delightful flavor—crisper, smoother, richer, and more fragrant, leaving a lasting aftertaste—so they often make extra to enjoy the next day.

　　As the saying goes, “Delicious tofu takes hard work.” By 9 a.m., the soybeans must be soaked; half an hour later, they’re ground—watching as “a wheel of the mill flows with liquid jade.” Once ground, the mixture is poured into a pot and boiled—“snowflakes churning in boiling water.” Next, it’s scooped into a bag to press out soy milk (the leftover okara in the bag can be stir-fried or fed to pigs, as it’s highly nutritious). Soon after, gypsum is added, which must be done carefully in precise amounts: too much makes the tofu “tough” and unpleasant to eat, while too little leads to excess water and an incomplete product. The mixture is transferred between two buckets two or three times—a process called “colliding the tofu.” After an hour, the semi-finished tofu is scooped onto a base lined with coarse white cloth, wrapped, lightly pressed, then cooled in a basin of clean water. After about half an hour, it’s ready to be drained and stuffed.

　　As the proverb says, “Tofu is made of water.” A major factor in the unique flavor of Liantan tofu is the quality of the water used, particularly the well water from local Xiquan Spring (now Liantan Middle School).

　　The method for making stuffed fresh tofu is as follows: cut the fresh tofu into rectangular pieces 0.6 cm thick, 4 cm wide, and 5 cm long, and place them on a cutting board. Add an appropriate amount of prepared filling (preferably made with catfish meat for its uniquely sweet flavor), then cover with another piece of tofu. Pan-fry both sides over low heat until golden, add a suitable amount of saltwater and soy sauce paste (Yunfu-produced is best), then simmer over high heat for 20 minutes. Sprinkle in chopped Chinese chives about an inch long, thicken with soy sauce and starch, and it’s ready to serve. A sprinkle of pepper before eating enhances the flavor. The tofu turns golden-red, with a delicious, soft, and smooth taste. It can be made all year round and is safe for both young and old. When wrapped in lettuce during the lettuce season, it offers yet another distinctive flavor.

　　Tofu is one of the greatest inventions in the history of Chinese cuisine. Esteemed by literati and scholars throughout the ages, China’s tofu-cooking techniques are unrivaled, making Chinese “tofu culture” a “unique wonder of the world.” (Yunfu)