Xuwen Cold Mixed Rice Noodles

Xuwen Cold Mixed Rice Noodles

　　A local delicacy of the Leizhou Peninsula, Xuwen’s cold mixed rice noodles (commonly called "castrated noodles") are truly one of a kind.

　　These noodles are made from refined rice flour, round and slender in shape. The small vendors selling them usually fill a bamboo basket neatly with these noodles. At the edge of a village or under the arcades along the street, without even needing to shout out, they can draw in many diners. The toppings for cold mixed noodles are very particular: first, the oil must be good—authentic peanut oil that has been infused, along with fried minced garlic, sesame seeds, and dried shrimp; second, the sauce must be top-quality soy sauce; third, the chili must be spicy—small wild chilies are used, because if the chilies aren’t spicy enough, the flavor of the noodles is diminished by half; fourth, the vinegar must be sour, but also slightly sweet to cut through the greasiness; fifth, there must be a “noodle dew,” which is a starchy mixture made with tapioca starch, mixed with some winter pickles and sprouts to enhance the noodles’ smoothness and tenderness.

　　Sitting on the little wooden stool at the noodle stall, you instantly feel energized. In the old days, the noodle vendor would scoop up a small eight-treasure bowl from a bucket of water, wipe it a few times with the rag hanging on the noodle basket, then scoop in the noodles. Next, he would ladle in the oil. The oil container isn’t big, and its mouth is very small, yet the vendor would continuously spoon oil into the bowl using a tiny ladle—at least ten or eight times—which dazzles your eyes. At this point, you might think he’s added a lot of fragrant oil, but in truth, not much actually ends up in the bowl. After adding all the toppings, the vendor stirs everything with chopsticks, and the stirring motion is truly like magic, whetting your appetite. To be honest, what I enjoy most about eating cold mixed noodles is watching these little actions of the vendors.

　　As the saying goes, Xuwen people grow up eating cold mixed noodles and mutton porridge. I believe this is absolutely true—each place shapes its people, and each flavor nurtures its locals. Many who work away from home have an inseparable bond with their hometown’s cold mixed noodles. As soon as they step off the train or bus back home, they head straight for the old streets and alleys to find those noodles. They say that if they go home without eating cold mixed noodles, they feel something is missing. When visitors come from out of town and see how much Xuwen folks enjoy their cold mixed noodles, they too pick up their chopsticks, take a bite, and are filled with praise, repeatedly exclaiming how delicious they are.