Xishan Rice Wine

Xishan Rice Wine

　　People in Linwu love drinking Xishan Rice Wine because it tastes so good.

　　The Xishan Mountain in Linwu is an extension of the Jiuyi Mountain Range. It is referred to as Tongbai Mountain in the Commentary on the Water Classic, and the Linwu County Annals from the Tongzhi reign of the Qing Dynasty records: “(Xishan) is surrounded by sheer cliffs, stretching majestically over a hundred li, with deep valleys and caves, dignified mountain ridges, layered clouds and verdant peaks, still covered in snow even in spring.” “Xishan Clearing Snow” is one of the eight scenic wonders of Linwu. The water from Xishan is particularly good, rich in various trace elements needed by the human body. Especially in today’s more industrialized society, the water remains unpolluted. The rice wine brewed with this water is called Xishan Rice Wine. Curious minds have tried to uncover the secret behind its delicious taste, concluding that it’s not due to unique brewing yeast, not the quality of the rice used, nor the special brewing technique—but solely because of the uniquely excellent water. Good water makes good wine.

　　The brewing history of Xishan Rice Wine is unclear, but judging from the poems and writings left by literati and poets throughout the ages after drinking it, it has existed since ancient times and has always been delicious. Take for example the Ming Dynasty’s Liu Yaoxian’s poem “Xishan Clearing Snow”: “Mountains gather from the west, auspicious air abounds, above floats a hazy jade city, jade branches brush the sun over the Yaoci waters, a silver sea stretches across the sky with light islands floating gently.” And Qing Dynasty’s Chen Yiju’s “Xishan Clearing Snow”: “Year after year we savor this fine day here, refreshing air drifts from the west as we drink together.” These provide a glimpse.

　　Xishan Rice Wine is sweet and delicious, smooth and pleasant to drink. Its clarity comes from the purity of nature—poured into a glass, it is crystal clear, reflecting shadows without a hint of impurity or distraction, blending seamlessly with a white porcelain cup. Its sweetness, once sipped, offers the pure essence of spring water, a fragrant aroma, hints of lotus, and yet seems to be nothing at all—yet there remains a faint trace of wine fragrance, just a touch of indescribable coolness. One sip moistens the lips, another brings sweetness to the tongue, and before you know it, this crisp coolness flows down your throat, refreshing your heart and spleen. But after all, it is wine, not natural mineral water. As wine, it has its own flavor—it has strength. Compared to beer, it has more character; compared to liquor, it has more elegance. Beer carries the vulgarity of mixed grains, while liquor exudes the overbearing dominance of strong spirits. Xishan Rice Wine is as quiet as a maiden, gracefully ethereal like a fairy. It follows a natural path—beer bubbles noisily for attention, liquor flaunts itself with bold, gaudy energy, while Xishan Rice Wine silently extends its tender arms, letting you rest peacefully in its embrace, unaware of the passage of time.

　　Because it follows a natural path, it has a distinctive charm, and the men of Linwu are particularly fond of it. When friends and family gather around a table, wine is served—no need to ask, it must be Xishan Rice Wine. The cups? Naturally, they use gongfu tea cups. A gongfu tea cup holds about two liang (100 ml), and with around ten people at the table, the more timid can take turns playing emperor, savoring the feeling of being the center of attention. Those with lower alcohol tolerance can still raise their glasses high, offer a toast or two, and declare boldly: “Xue xi!” “Xue xi!” (Linwu dialect for: Drink up!) The heavier drinkers start with a three-jin (1.5-liter) Jianlibao bottle in front of each person. Once one bottle is finished, another is opened. When the fun peaks and they’re still not satisfied, they push aside the tea cups and grab large bowls instead, filling them to the brim and downing them in one go—no drips allowed. Anyone who spills is heavily punished. Punished how? Naturally, with more Xishan Rice Wine. How much? Everyone argues noisily until a suitable punishment is agreed upon. By then, everyone is well on their way to poetic inspiration, doing their utmost to get others to drink just a little more.

　　Many women in Linwu also enjoy this drink. Nowadays, life is more prosperous, and women have more freedom. In their leisure time, a few “shaoshao” (Linwu dialect for married women) get together, order a plate of duck feet, a plate of chicken drumsticks, a plate of snail skewers, or other local snacks, and pour themselves a pot of Xishan Rice Wine. Sipping slowly, after a few rounds, some may show flushed cheeks or faces as rosy as peach blossoms, and soon they’ll start sharing playful, teasing, mildly risqué jokes. This teases the men listening nearby, making them eager to join in for a few drinks. This is a unique sight along Linwu’s night snack street—if you don’t believe it, go experience it yourself. There are also gatherings where men and women drink together. The men will try their best to persuade the women to join in. The shy ones initially refuse, but once the men get into the mood, the women can’t help but join, and soon, one drink downs one, two drinks down two. As the local saying goes: “When the women pick up their glasses, the men fall like dominoes.” Then there are the bold women who, after just a few words of persuasion, raise their glasses alongside the men, finishing every cup, back and forth, balancing the energies of yin and yang, not letting the men outdo them, all in joyful harmony.

　　Recently, Linwu County has been striving to become the most livable city, with rapid urban development and the natural beauty of its mountains and waters becoming increasingly evident. Yet Xishan Rice Wine remains a timeless pleasure for the people of Linwu, an indispensable flavor in their lives. For many locals, only after a few cups of Xishan Rice Wine do they truly feel that Linwu is a more livable and delightful city.