Fish noodle soup
Currently, among breakfast options in Hengyang, fish noodle soup is the most popular type of rice noodle dish. It is beloved by locals for its delicious taste, rich and thick broth, refreshing and stomach-soothing qualities after eating, as well as its strong satiating effect that helps prevent hunger. It’s so well-liked that when hosting distinguished guests, hosts often skip serving breakfast at the hotel and instead take their visitors to a fish noodle soup shop, where they enthusiastically order a bowl for their guests from afar. After trying it, guests are often amazed and, when planning their next visit to Hengyang, will eagerly suggest, “Let’s go eat fish noodle soup tomorrow morning.” Locals also enjoy serving fish noodle soup when hosting guests in the morning.
The origins of Hengyang’s current fish noodle soup can be traced back to Zhajiang fish noodle soup from Hengyang County. It had already gained fame as early as the last century. However, due to transportation limitations and an underdeveloped economy at the time, its popularity was confined to Hengyang County. It wasn’t until 1985 that a fish noodle soup shop opened in Xidu, the county seat.
In the early 21st century, fish noodle soup from Santang Town in Hengnan County suddenly rose to prominence. Its reputation and prestige have now surpassed those of Zhajiang fish noodle soup. The operator opened a shop on the streets of Santang. Despite its modest conditions, the unique flavor quickly gained attention. Food enthusiasts from the city couldn’t resist the allure, and it became fashionable to make a Sunday trip to Santang just to eat fish noodle soup.
Entrepreneurs with a keen business sense spotted an opportunity. After carefully studying the production process of fish noodle soup, they began serving Santang-style fish noodle soup in Hengyang City. Nowadays, most fish noodle soup shops in Hengyang display “Santang fish noodle soup” on their signs. Unfortunately, Zhajiang fish noodle soup has gradually been replaced by Santang fish noodle soup.
Fish noodle soup is actually not very complicated to make. The key lies in using fresh fish. The fish used in the dish are live and killed just before cooking. The broth must be rich—typically made by smashing pork leg bones (mainly the tibia and fibula, as well as the radius and ulna), adding soybeans, and slow-simmering them over low heat for at least one night. This broth is then used to cook the fish. How could it not be delicious?
The crucial step in making fish noodle soup is the cooking process of the fish. After cleaning and cutting the fish into chunks, heat oil in a pan until very hot, then briefly sear the fresh fish pieces. Add cooking wine (Xidu Hu Zhi wine is the best choice) and quickly stir-fry. Then add salt and the rich broth, followed by minced ginger and garlic. Cover and simmer. Avoid frequently lifting the lid and stirring the fish while cooking, as this can affect the texture of the fish and may introduce a fishy smell into the broth. After some time, the broth will turn milky white. At this point, you can uncover the pot to adjust the seasoning, balancing the saltiness to your liking, then add fresh vegetables and bring the dish to a finish. Pour the hot broth over freshly blanched rice noodles, and your fish noodle soup is complete.
When eating fish noodle soup, don’t be too hasty. The fine fish bones can easily get stuck in the noodles, which might lead to accidentally choking on a bone. Generally, it’s best to eat slowly and follow three steps: eat the fish first, then the noodles, and finally drink the broth.
By this time, the fish will have combined its own natural umami with the rich flavors of the broth, making it a real treat. Carefully remove any bones and enjoy the tender fish meat. Since it was lightly seared earlier, the fish has a slight smoky aroma, blending seamlessly with its natural freshness—a unique and delightful taste experience.
After finishing the fish, the noodles will have soaked in the fish broth for a while, absorbing its rich flavors. By now, the noodles are deliciously smooth, soft, and tender, with a greatly elevated taste that makes it hard to swallow right away. Of course, if you’re having sour slurry noodles, the flavor is even more extraordinary.
Finally, there’s the broth. The fish broth is the soul of fish noodle soup—the key to whether it’s well-made lies in how the chef prepares the broth. The broth is milky white like jade, garnished with bright green scallions and a few vivid red chili slices, making it look like a beautiful hot pot centerpiece. The broth is thick, incredibly savory, and sometimes has a slightly sticky texture in the mouth—that’s all the essence. Generally speaking, diners rarely leave a single drop of the broth uneaten.
In Hengyang, fish noodle soup is just one variety offered at these shops. There are also fish head noodle soup and fish offal noodle soup. The cooking methods are no different—the difference lies only in diners’ personal preferences for certain parts of the fish. No further explanation is needed.
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