Country-cured Bacon

Country-cured Bacon

　　The bacon referred to here is not the thin slices you find in city restaurants, but rather the rich, fatty, generously sized authentic country-cured bacon. This kind of bacon can only be found in the countryside—even if it’s brought into the city, its flavor is bound to change.

　　　　Country-cured bacon is yellow tinged with black, with oil seeping through the blackness. It is smoked using pine branches and rice husks. A freshly butchered, plump pig is cut into eight pieces, soaked in a saltwater vat for ten days or so, then strung up with ropes and hung on a kang bed. The kang must occupy a small room all to itself, sealed tight. When pine branches and rice husks are lit, they burn slowly without flames, only emitting thick smoke that wafts out from the fire and gradually fills the entire room. The person tending the fire will inevitably rush outside in a flurry. Once the door is closed, they’ll gasp for breath while rubbing their smoke-stung eyes. Just as they’re about to leave, they’ll usually feel uneasy, worried something might cause a fire, so they’ll take a deep breath, push open the door, and grope their way through the smoke to check around the fire for any hazards—only then will they bolt out like a cornered animal, enveloped in a cloud of smoke. By the time they’ve caught their breath, their clothes may still be smoking. If you look toward the house from the outside at this point, you’re sure to see wisps of blue smoke curling from the roof tiles, like something out of a fairy tale.

　　　　At first, the meat still drips with salty water, but after two or three days of smoking, the dripping stops, and the meat begins to take on a light yellow hue. After another ten days or so, the yellow has completely overtaken the original white, turning a golden-yellow that’s extremely enticing. But to make someone’s mouth water at first glance, you’ll have to wait a full month—by then, the meat begins to emit a rich aroma, and the smoke can be reduced. That fragrance is real, almost tangible, and the locals love that genuine, hearty scent. Floral fragrances are too ethereal, faint and elusive—that’s something only refined city folk can appreciate. Country folks don’t have the luxury for such subtleties. Only the smell of this cured bacon can bring them a sense of security, and allow them to find joy in life after their hard labor.

　　　　When the bacon turns yellow with streaks of black, the smoking can stop, and family members can start going into the room more often. Whenever they pass by, they’ll inevitably look up at the dark, glistening slabs of bacon on the kang. Even though they’ve counted them over and over, they can’t help but count them again—and as they count, their expressions change. Upon closer inspection, they’ll spot that a corner of a slab has been nibbled on by mice, prompting an outburst of cursing.

　　　　After the smoke has stopped for two or three days, the bacon can be stored away. That’s when they’ll clean out the grain storage cabinet. These cabinets are made from high-quality camphorwood, sturdy and mothproof. First, a thick layer of dried straw is laid on the bottom, then the bacon, wrapped in plastic wrap, is placed inside, followed by another layer of straw on top to prevent moisture. In this way, the bacon is securely stored in the cabinet. It’s not eaten on a regular basis—only when distinguished guests visit or during holidays and festivals does the cabinet get opened. Then, with a brightly polished kitchen knife, a slice is cut off and placed in a pot to be rinsed. Once cleaned, the bacon sheds its dark outer layer, revealing a golden-yellow, glistening surface. It’s a treat just to look at, let alone eat.

　　　　Country-cured bacon is cut thick and large. When stir-fried, a single serving will yield half a bowl of fat. The locals who eat this bacon and drink the fat gain strength and their eyes shine with vitality. They walk with vigor and work with boundless energy. The meat and fat they consume turn into strength and vitality, as well as determination and confidence.