Taiping Ancient Castanopsis
“The old tree — since when did it grow? Asked the waters and hills, but none would tell; / Taiping preserves its ancient traces — sighing over past and present, yet none could make me know.” This couplet was composed by an ancient poet in praise of the Taiping Ancient Castanopsis. I was deeply moved by its elegant literary style, and even more struck by the solemn and mysterious history depicted in the verse.
The ancient castanopsis grows in Jijiawan, Hutang Village, Taipingpu Township, Taoyuan County. It’s a very remote and small place, close to Sandushui in Yuanling. This July, in order to see the ancient castanopsis, we braved the scorching heat and set off with delight. As soon as we arrived in Jijiawan, we immediately noticed someone waving not far away — that was where the ancient castanopsis grew, and the locals there seemed to have already known we were coming to see it. The ancient castanopsis grows right at the corner of a villager’s house. We eagerly approached it, and even with six people joining hands and stretching their arms out straight, we could barely encircle it. It turns out the ancient castanopsis stands 18.75 meters tall, with a breast-height diameter of 2.06 meters — truly a “giant among giants.” Its main trunk is hollow, but the exterior remains intact. At the 10-meter mark of the trunk, three massive thick branches fork out. The three branches twist like coiling dragons, soaring straight into the sky. For a long time, the ancient castanopsis was also called “Castanopsis-Elm-Palm.” The reason was that birds playing in its shade had scattered seeds of elm and palm trees onto its trunk. These seeds sprouted on the trunk and actually grew into large trees, creating the wonder of trees growing on a tree. Thus, the ancient castanopsis became a collective name for the three — castanopsis, elm, and palm. Nowadays, the elm and palm that once grew from the ancient castanopsis’s trunk have long died. But new trees such as fir and mulberry have sprung up on the tree, all as big as fists. In this season, the aged ancient castanopsis bursts forth with lush green leaves, full of vitality. Its vitality is so exuberant that it is truly breathtaking.
Who planted the old tree, and since when it grew, remain unknown. The ancient tree stele erected during the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty could only state: “Passed down through several dynasties, through deep years and long months.” Even earlier generations couldn’t figure out when the ancient castanopsis was born. However, it is a documented fact that Su Dongpo, a poet of the Northern Song Dynasty, once invited Huang Shangu to visit and admire the tree, leaving behind the poetic line: “From afar one sees Sandushui in Yuanling; up close, one views a single castanopsis in Taiping.” Nearby, there still exists a place called Suhuang Stream, named in their memory. In Su Dongpo’s eyes, the serene beauty of the ancient castanopsis in Taipingpu, Taoyuan, and the dynamic beauty of the three rivers converging in Sandushui, Yuanling, were equally magnificent and spectacular — an eternal landscape. Poetry was composed for the tree, and the tree gained fame through the poet; the ancient castanopsis carries profound cultural heritage.
Under the ancient castanopsis, there is a stone stele. The upper right corner of the stele is damaged, but the inscriptions are still clearly visible. It clearly records a historical story related to the ancient castanopsis. Near the ancient castanopsis once lived a family surnamed Ji, whose stilted house leaned against the ancient tree. Over time, the branches of the ancient castanopsis unconsciously stretched into their room. They were quite troubled (mountain folks regarded ancient trees as incarnations of spirits or demons), so they took up an axe and chopped at the huge branch. Not far from their home lived a family surnamed Tang, and the two families had never been on good terms. Seizing the opportunity, the Tangs sold off their farmland and sued the Jis in the county court. The Jis, being eloquent, won the lawsuit instead, and thus erected the stele in commemoration. That happened during the 14th year of the Guangxu reign (1888). The stone stele under the ancient castanopsis records the entire affair and also reflects the Qing people’s indifference toward the ancient tree.
The soon-to-be-constructed Changji Expressway also passes near the ancient castanopsis, cutting through the valley and occupying many fertile fields. One day, when planners moved their surveying instruments to Jijiawan, they noticed that the road would need to cut right through the spot where the ancient castanopsis grew. After studying the blueprints and gazing for a long while, they resolutely moved the instruments to the valley. Our expressway gave way to the ancient castanopsis.
The ancient castanopsis has come down through the distant reaches of time and space. Each of its growth rings records a piece of magical history. It is a vivid history book that commands reverence from every reader.
When the sun sets in the west, the shade of the ancient castanopsis spans several acres. A cool breeze drifts through the shade, dispelling all summer heat, bringing a sense of ease and joy. We came from afar, unable to enjoy this serenity for long, and had to leave with reluctance.
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