Hunan Miao cured pork

Hunan Miao cured pork

　　According to the "Explanation of the 'Shi He' Chapter in the Book of Changes": "Roasted by yang over fire is called cured pork." This proves that cured pork has a history of over two thousand years. The Tujia and Miao cured pork from Hunan is a distinctive local specialty uniquely created by the Tujia and Miao peoples to extend the shelf life of pork. Its characteristics include: rich fat aroma, yellow-glossy skin, meat color resembling fire—vividly red and pleasing, delicious taste, and high nutritional value. It has long been "hidden away in a deep boudoir, unknown to others," yet holds extremely high development potential. In Hunan cuisine, there are dishes such as stir-fried winter bamboo shoots with cured pork, stir-fried bitter melon with cured pork, cured meat steamed together (cured pork, cured fish, cured chicken), and stir-fried cured pork with white pepper.

　　　　In ancient times, the twelfth lunar month was called the La month, and the eighth day of the twelfth month was called Laba. Du Fu wrote in a poem: "Laba days are usually still far from warm, but this year’s Laba has seen all the cold vanish." The *Compendium of Materia Medica* states that three snowfalls before La can kill locusts and pests, which is beneficial for the growth of vegetables and wheat in the following year. Precisely because the season is suitable, the people of western Hunan have had the custom of curing pork since ancient times. Western Hunan is mountainous, with lush vegetation and abundant timber. The cured pork is smoked over firewood, giving it a rich and mellow flavor. In some other parts of China, cured pork is often smoked using grain husks, peanut shells, or sawdust ash. While the appearance of such cured pork may be appealing—golden yellow—the taste is far inferior to that of western Hunan cured pork.

　　　　The people of western Hunan have their own unique techniques and methods for making cured pork. During the La month, families slaughter pigs they have raised themselves, with most of the meat used to make cured pork. First, the meat is cut into strips or chunks, with heavier pieces weighing four or five pounds and lighter ones around one or two pounds. Then, salt is rubbed onto the meat, which is then placed in jars or wooden barrels to allow the salt to penetrate every part. This curing process generally takes five to seven days. Afterward, the meat is taken out and hung in a ventilated area to allow the moisture to drip out, causing the meat to contract—making it ready for smoking. During the La month, many rural households in western Hunan dig a hearth in their main room, and the meat is hung above the hearth or above the stove. While burning firewood for warmth and cooking, the meat is simultaneously smoked—a win-win solution.

　　　　Western Hunan is a high-altitude and cold region, where rural people spend longer hours by the fire, resulting in a longer curing period for the pork. The cured pork can be preserved for a long time without spoiling and can be eaten until the Beginning of Winter the following year. Western Hunan cured pork may not look impressive, but it tastes excellent. When chewed, it stimulates saliva and leaves a lingering fragrance in the mouth and cheeks. Steamed cured pork can be eaten by tearing it apart piece by piece or strand by strand. Cleaned fatty cured pork is crystal clear and translucent; when placed in sunlight, one can even see their reflection—it is rich yet not greasy. On New Year’s Eve, Tujia families in western Hunan gather around the table for a reunion dinner, and a bowl of cured pork is always essential. Eating the fragrant cured pork, drinking homemade large-bowl rice wine, and singing mountain songs, the atmosphere is joyful and harmonious, as everyone prays for favorable weather and a bountiful harvest in the coming year.