Golden Cloak

Golden Cloak

　　When I was a child, whenever there was a happy occasion at home or during festivals, my mother would make a plate of golden cloak. When she placed it on the table, she would announce loudly, “The golden cloak is here.” Then I would just reach out with my hand, grab a piece, and pop it into my mouth. My mother never scolded me but would smile as she watched me eat that piece of golden cloak. I used to think it was because the outer layer of egg wrapper on the egg roll meat was golden yellow, and people gave it the name “golden cloak” for good luck. Just like how my mother didn’t stop me from grabbing the golden cloak with my hands—maybe she hoped that one day I’d make something of myself and be able to afford to wear a “golden cloak.”

　　One day, at the birthday banquet of a friend’s mother, I learned from an elderly man at the table that the golden cloak actually has a beautiful legend behind it.

　　Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty made six southern tours. At that time, Pushi was an important port on the Yuan River and a necessary stop on Qianlong’s southern journeys. When Qianlong’s fleet passed through Pushi for the third time, people began to say that he was making the southern tour in search of his birth mother. Local merchants in Pushi sensed a business opportunity and seized on the story of the emperor looking for his mother. One restaurant invented a new dish where minced meat was wrapped in an egg wrapper. The egg wrapper symbolized the golden dragon robe worn by the emperor, while the meat filling inside represented the fact that although he was the Son of Heaven, he had not forgotten that he was once part of his mother’s flesh. This dish was named Filial Piety Meat and became very popular among the locals. Later, a scholar who tried the Filial Piety Meat told the restaurant owner that while the taste was delicious and it could definitely become the restaurant’s signature dish, the name “Filial Piety Meat” was neither elegant nor catchy, and it should be renamed. Seeing the sincerity and logic in the scholar’s words, the owner asked him to help come up with a new name. After some thought, the scholar said, “This dish uses an egg wrapper to symbolize the golden dragon robe worn by the emperor, so why not call it Golden Cloak? It both honors the original intention behind Filial Piety Meat and offers a beautiful wish to the guests.” The restaurant owner was very pleased with the name Golden Cloak, and thus the Filial Piety Meat was renamed Golden Cloak.

　　Later, no one knows who composed a children’s song that spread around Pushi: “Emperor Qianlong goes south, his filial heart moves heaven and earth. Golden Cloak tastes great, next year you’ll pass the exams with honors.” Influenced by the song, the residents of Pushi also started to make their own Golden Cloak. Over time, Pushi’s Golden Cloak developed its own unique characteristics—thin yet intact egg wrappers, and tender, flavorful meat fillings.

　　To make a good Golden Cloak, the first step is to prepare thin and large egg wrappers. When beating eggs in a bowl, stir them in only one direction to give them strength and prevent breakage. For cooking the egg wrapper, a flat-bottomed pan is best. First heat the pan over high heat, then reduce to low heat. Brush a layer of oil in the pan, pour in the egg mixture, and quickly spread it out. Once the egg sets, gently lift the wrapper with a spatula. Be sure to oil the spatula as well to avoid sticking and tearing the egg wrapper.

　　The filling for the egg roll can be adjusted to your taste. Typically, Pushi’s Golden Cloak uses minced pork belly mixed with shrimp and ginger. The shrimp adds firmness to the filling, while the ginger removes any fishy smell and enhances the flavor. Then add an appropriate amount of salt, a little cornstarch, and chicken essence, and mix well.

　　Finally, spread out the egg wrapper, place a layer of the prepared filling on top, and start rolling the egg roll. Roll from one end of the wrapper toward the center, then continue to the end, pressing firmly to form a cylinder. Make sure it is rolled tightly so it won’t fall apart during steaming. Usually, steaming it in a steamer basket for about 25 minutes will cook it through. When eating, you can slice it and enjoy it as is, or put it in hot pot, or even stir-fry it with some vegetables. Some people wrap each Golden Cloak in corn husks before steaming to prevent juice loss and add a fragrant corn aroma, giving it a unique flavor.