Fenghuang Cured Meat

Fenghuang Cured Meat

　　According to the "Explanation of the 'Shihe' Chapter in the Book of Changes": "Meat dried by the yang and roasted over fire is called cured meat." This proves that cured meat has a history of over two thousand years. The Tujia and Miao cured meats from Hunan are distinctive local delicacies uniquely created by the Tujia and Miao peoples to extend the shelf life of pork. Their characteristics include: rich fat aroma, bright yellow skin, meat color resembling fire—vividly red and pleasing, delicious taste, and high nutritional value. It has long been "hidden away in a deep boudoir, unknown to others," yet holds extremely high development potential. In Hunan cuisine, there are dishes such as stir-fried winter bamboo shoots with cured meat, stir-fried bitter melon with cured meat, cured meat combination steamed dish (cured meat, cured fish, cured chicken), and stir-fried cured meat with white pepper.

In ancient times, the twelfth lunar month was called the La month, and the eighth day of the twelfth month was called Laba. Du Fu wrote in a poem: "Laba days usually still feel far from warm, but this year’s Laba has seen all the cold vanish." The *Compendium of Materia Medica* states that three snowfalls before La can kill locusts and pests, which is beneficial for the growth of vegetables and wheat in the coming year. Precisely because the season is suitable, the people of western Hunan have had the custom of curing meat since ancient times. Western Hunan is mountainous, with lush vegetation and abundant timber. The cured meat is smoked over firewood, giving it a rich and mellow flavor. In some other parts of China, cured meat is often smoked using grain husks, peanut shells, sawdust ash, etc. While the appearance of such cured meat may be attractive, with a golden-yellow hue, its taste is far inferior to that of western Hunan cured meat.

The people of western Hunan have their own unique techniques and methods for making cured meat. During the La month, families slaughter the pigs they have raised, with most of the meat used to make cured meat. First, the meat is cut into strips or chunks, with heavier pieces weighing four or five jin and lighter ones around one or two jin. Then, salt is rubbed onto the meat, which is placed in jars or wooden barrels to allow the salt to penetrate every part. This curing process generally takes five to seven days. Afterward, the meat is taken out and hung in a ventilated area to allow the moisture to drip out, causing the meat to contract—making it ready for smoking. During the La month, many rural households in western Hunan dig a hearth in their main room, and the meat is hung above the hearth or above the stove. While burning firewood for warmth and cooking, the meat is simultaneously smoked—a win-win solution.

Western Hunan is a high-altitude and cold region where rural residents spend a long time around the fire, resulting in a lengthy curing process. The cured meat can be preserved for a long time without spoiling and can be eaten until the beginning of winter the following year. Though not particularly attractive in appearance, western Hunan cured meat has an excellent taste. When chewed, it creates a mouthwatering sensation and leaves a lingering fragrance between the teeth and cheeks. Steamed cured meat can be eaten by tearing it apart piece by piece or strand by strand. Cleaned fatty cured meat, when translucent and clear, can even reflect shadows when placed in sunlight—it is rich in oil yet not greasy. On New Year’s Eve, Tujia families in western Hunan gather around the table for a reunion dinner, and a bowl of cured meat is always essential. While enjoying the fragrant cured meat, drinking homemade rice wine from large bowls, and singing mountain songs, the atmosphere is filled with joy and harmony, as everyone prays for favorable weather and a bumper harvest in the coming year.