West River Fish

West River Fish

　　It is often said that nine out of ten people fear fish bones when eating fish. But when it comes to West River fish, there’s no need to worry about bones. Though it may sound contradictory to say West River fish has bones yet feels boneless, those who have tried it can attest to the truth of this. The unique natural environment where these fish grow, combined with the distinctive cooking technique, makes even chewing the bones along with the flesh a uniquely delightful experience.

　　“West River Fish” from Yuan’an is a proper noun used to distinguish it from fish in other rivers. The West River is the upper reaches of the Huangbai River, named so because it flows through the western mountainous region of Yuan’an County. Towering mountains and lush forests line both banks of the West River, and the water is crystal clear, free from industrial pollution. As a seasonal high-mountain river, aside from flood season, its waters generally do not exceed knee depth and remain so clear that the fish are easily countable. There are not many varieties of West River fish. In the local vernacular, the main types include fan fish, river fish, red wings, white flower fish, rockside fish, black spotted fish, yellow bullhead, as well as the nationally protected second-class amphibian, the Chinese giant salamander. Aside from the salamander, the other fish usually weigh around one or two liang (50–100 grams), with the largest fan fish weighing only about one jin (500 grams). The unique natural conditions give rise to the distinctive qualities of West River fish. Growing and reproducing in clear mountain streams and feeding on moss and plankton, these fish are tender, rich in flavor, highly nutritious, and virtually free of fishy taste. The yield of West River fish is not high. After 1980, with the construction of the Tianfumiao Reservoir on the West River and the introduction of artificially bred fry for natural cultivation in the reservoir, the yield began to increase.

　　The methods for catching West River fish are primitive yet fascinating. One method is called “stacking stones,” where rocks of various sizes are arranged into a “maze” at fish passageways with slow currents. Fish can easily swim in but find it hard to get out. After ten days or so, the stack is dismantled to catch the fish. A large net is first used to completely enclose the stone structure, then the stones are slowly removed, trapping the fish inside. This method is commonly used during the dry season. Another method is “smashing rocks.” Fishermen take an eight-pound sledgehammer to shallow areas of river branches, smashing rocks at random. Upon lifting the rocks, they often find one or two stunned small fish underneath, or some floating nearby, which can be gently scooped into a basket. There’s also a method called “blocking the cave mouth.” Along the West River, there are two deep, unfathomable caves that discharge fish during floods. People rush to set up nets to catch them as they emerge.

　　Pan-frying West River fish requires no oil. Simply sprinkle a little fine salt and slowly pan-fry the fish over low heat. As the rich flesh heats up, it emits a slight sizzling sound, gradually releasing its unique aroma that teases your taste buds and makes your mouth water. Once the fish is golden brown on both sides, stir-fry it further with ginger, garlic, Sichuan peppercorn, and dried chili. In spring, stir-frying it with “spring” (locally known as “chūntiān” 春天, referring to toon sprouts) makes it even more delicious.

　　Eating West River fish is a refined experience, emphasizing appreciation of its flavor. Because the fish is scarce and precious, it is usually served in delicate small portions. Pick up a piece with chopsticks, first savor its aroma, then enjoy its taste — and you’ll find yourself exclaiming, “Mm, it’s good, really good!”