Eight-Dish Meal of Zhuxi

Eight-Dish Meal of Zhuxi

　　The Eight-Dish Meal is a common banquet spread used for weddings and funerals in Zhuxi. What exactly is the Eight-Dish Meal? What dishes does it include? What legends surround it? Let’s hear from those well-versed in Zhuxi’s food culture as they explain it all.

　　Where does the Eight-Dish Meal of Zhuxi come from?

　　The Eight-Dish Meal has long been popular among the local people in Zhuxi. People often ask: which eight dishes does it include? What are the customs around eating the Eight-Dish Meal? These questions have long puzzled many. In fact, the Eight-Dish Meal of Zhuxi originates from either the Shaanxi Eight-Dish Meal or the Huangzhou Eight-Dish Meal of Hubei Province. Today, there is even a Chang’an Eight-Dish Meal Co., Ltd. in Xi’an, and specialty stores for the Eight-Dish Meal in Huangzhou. Some scholars lean toward the theory that it was introduced from Shaanxi, because when Zhuxi County was established, “five out of ten migrants were from Shaanxi.”

　　Looking further back, China’s Eight-Dish Meal tradition originated from the Manchu Eight-Dish Meal. The Manchu Eight-Dish Meal is a unique culinary offering of the Manchu people. It consists of eight dishes: stir-fried minced tofu with pickled vegetables, shrimp-marinated tofu omelet, braised pork trotter, blanched frog, chicken with precious mushrooms and vermicelli, stewed New Year’s pork with mixed vegetables, imperial-style toon fish, and Father’s Honor Meat.

　　There are refined and rustic versions of the Eight-Dish Meal. The refined version includes: fish slices in gravy, shrimp in sauce, family feast, osmanthus fish bone, smooth fish in sauce, shredded pork Sichuan style, large Sichuan meatballs, and pine-flavored meat. The rustic version includes: stir-fried shrimp, shredded chicken in sauce, crab roe and egg custard stew, sea cucumber meatballs, ingot meat, clear soup chicken, deconstructed chicken stew, and home-style braised carp.

　　The Eight-Dish Meal is often served when entertaining guests, with eight people per table and eight dishes served in identical large bowls. During the Qing Dynasty’s Qianlong era, at the height of its prosperity, with political stability and economic growth, the food market flourished as never before. Among the highlights was the “Manchu-Han Imperial Feast” (which included “Upper Eight Delicacies,” “Middle Eight Delicacies,” and “Lower Eight Delicacies,” with the Manchu Eight-Dish Meal being one of the “Lower Eight Delicacies”). Manchu regional flavors also emerged, presenting a scene of great vibrancy. The Manchu Eight-Dish Meal was widely loved by the public. Those who have tried it know that the dishes are delicious, satisfying, and rich in local flavor. The *Examination of Manchu Banners’ Sacrificial Rites* records: “Feasts use five tripods and eight cups, commonly called the Eight-Dish Meal. For festivals, celebrations, and weddings, wealthy families often host guests with the Eight-Dish Meal.” At that time, the Eight-Dish Meal incorporated all major cooking techniques: braising, stewing, simmering, roasting, frying, steaming, and sautéing. Among them, Father’s Honor Meat, commonly known as Nurhaci’s Golden Meat, is the most representative. This dish dates back to the era of Qing Taizu Nurhaci. The *Concise History of the Manchus* states that after Nurhaci unified the northeast, he built the “Tangzi” (altar) and erected a pole to worship heaven, performing sacrifices for all military campaigns and major events. The *Bamboo Leaf Pavilion Miscellany* records: “For sacrifices, only pure black-haired livestock without any other colors were chosen. The animals were slaughtered and cooked right before the deity.”

　　What beautiful legends are associated with the Eight-Dish Meal of Zhuxi?

　　There is a lovely legend about the Eight-Dish Meal. It is said that the Eight Immortals—Lü Dongbin, Tieguai Li, He Xiangu, Zhang Guolao, Lan Caihe, Cao Guojiu, Han Xiangzi, and Zhongli Quan—were traveling across the land on clouds when they flew from north to south. Passing through Zhuxi, they noticed the lush green valleys, misty atmosphere, and abundant vegetation, a stark contrast to the barren northwest. They descended from the clouds and transformed into villagers, entering simple cottages. Seeing the locals living a harsh and monotonous life with very basic food, the immortals divided tasks among themselves to gather edible mountain delicacies such as toon sprouts, wood ear mushrooms, and shiitake from the surrounding hills. Creatively combining various meats and vegetables, they prepared them by frying, boiling, stewing, sautéing, and deep-frying, creating lavish banquets to treat the local villagers.

　　One of the immortals, Lü Dongbin, was overjoyed and carved a seven-character regulated poem on a rock with his sword: “Ancient woods and forests echo with white clouds, higher cliffs lead to Guanyin’s shrine. Green ridges rise above the path, temples hide deep in the white mist. The Dharma drum shakes open heaven and earth’s eyes, the flying wheel pushes forth the hearts of saints and mortals. When people arrive here and attain enlightenment, why seek further in southern cliffs or the seas?” From then on, this became one of Zhuxi’s Eight Scenic Spots: “Sword Marks on Cloud Cliff.” The *Annals of Arts and Literature* in the surviving Qing Tongzhi-era county annals of Zhuxi includes the poem *Touring White Cloud Rock*, attributed to Lü Yan—who is none other than the birth name of Lü Dongbin before he became immortal. Legend says Lü Dongbin was a real person. Before becoming an immortal, he was named Lü Yan, hailing from present-day Ruicheng in Shanxi. Born into a family of generations of officials, he was well-read in classics and history from childhood, achieved the rank of jinshi (imperial scholar), and served as a local official in the late Tang Dynasty. Later, tired of the chaotic times, he abandoned worldly wealth and went to live in separate caves with his wife in Zhongtiao Mountain for spiritual practice. After successfully attaining immortality, he descended the mountain, traveled far and wide, and helped the people.

　　After the Eight Immortals left, the people of Zhuxi learned their cooking methods, categorized and prepared the ingredients, and turned them into delicious dishes. On major holidays and ceremonial occasions, they would serve these banquets to guests from all directions. To commemorate the Eight Immortals’ gift of culinary skills, they named the meal the Eight-Dish Meal, thus forming the Eight-Dish Meal cuisine that is now popular in the Zhuxi River basin.

　　How has the content of the Eight-Dish Meal changed?

　　Zhuxi is a county built by migrants. According to the *Zhuxi County Annals*, when the county was established in the 12th year of the Ming Chenghua era, its population composition was “five from Shaanxi, four from Jiangxi… and now many from Sichuan, Jiangnan, Shanxi, Guangdong, Hunan, as well as Wuchang, Huangzhou, Anlu, Jingxiang, and our own Hubei Province have also settled here.” Existing structures such as the Jiangxi Guild Hall, Hunan Guild Hall, and Huangzhou Guild Hall serve as evidence.

　　This unique population structure facilitated cultural exchange, allowing Zhuxi cuisine to blend the dietary habits of Sichuan, Shaanxi, Hubei, and other regions. It absorbed elements from each, forming the current distinctive sour-spicy flavor that combines Sichuan’s spice with Shanxi’s sourness. After the Eight-Dish Meal took root in Zhuxi, it became customary to include four meat and four vegetable dishes. Common meat dishes include red braised pork, crispy pork, shredded pork, and cold meat platters; vegetarian dishes include pan-fried tofu, boiled vermicelli, plus two seasonal vegetables. Among the Eight-Dish Meal, steamed dishes, cured meats, vermicelli, and tofu can be prepared the day before, while Zhuxi’s wedding and funeral banquets often feature “flowing banquets” where the stoves never go out and the guests keep coming. The convenience of preparing the Eight-Dish Meal naturally made it popular among locals, becoming the go-to banquet for weddings, funerals, and festivals.

　　With the passage of time and improved living standards, the Eight-Dish Meal of Zhuxi has continued to evolve. The eight dishes change with the times and tastes. Most importantly, soup has been added, and in some cases, soup has been replaced with steamed basins. (Text and photos by special contributor Chen Yaolin, *Shiyan Evening News*)