Hulu Soup

Hulu Soup

　　The name “Hulu Soup” may sound strange, but it is actually derived from the “hū lū lū” sound made when slurping the soup — a rather vivid description. Imagine dozens of people sitting around together, each holding a bowl of savory hot soup, bringing it to their lips and sipping it noisily through a straw-like motion. Doesn’t that “hū lū lū” sound create a delightful chorus?

　　Hulu Soup isn’t particularly famous and has more of an understated charm. In Henan Province, it’s only widely popular in my hometown, Gushi County of Xinyang region. Gushi is located in the southeast of Henan, bordering Hubei, and its dietary habits differ significantly from those in central and northern Henan, featuring a lighter flavor profile. Hulu Soup fits perfectly with this culinary style. It uses sweet potato starch as a thickening agent, mixed into boiling chicken broth to form a rich, dense liquid. Ingredients such as shredded kelp, tofu skin, minced meat, fried soybeans, cellophane noodles, and diced tofu are added. Its main ingredients are similar to those of spicy soup, but it differs mainly in seasonings — only a small amount of fennel, pepper, chili, and salt are used to keep the taste mild, making it suitable for breakfast to help stimulate the appetite. The most distinctive feature is the egg flower, poured into the soup through a strainer in delicate, even patterns.

　　These egg flowers are evenly distributed atop the milky-white broth, set off by glistening white diced tofu, deep green shredded kelp, light yellow tofu skin, pale pink minced meat, golden fried beans, and yellow-and-white egg flowers. The color palette is vibrant yet fresh, resembling a tranquil watercolor painting that naturally stirs one’s appetite.

　　People back home love this soup. In the early morning, they gather on the streets, call out, and a bowl is promptly served. The locals are meticulous and pay great attention to both flavor and presentation. Even the bowls used for serving the soup are smaller, often made of fine porcelain — some with blue floral patterns, others with white porcelain accented with blue. Unlike the large, rustic black-glazed earthenware bowls common in the north that exude an ancient charm, these are refined and delicate. Naturally, soup is paired with staple foods. Local vendors selling flatbreads, steamed buns, or other baked goods often team up with soup sellers to run their businesses together. The buns are usually steamed over a wood-fired stove, with some sides touching simmering water to achieve a half-steamed, half-baked texture, often resulting in a golden-brown crust on one side. Others are steamed on a rack above water, yielding a soft texture. There’s also something called “rotated bun,” similar to northern Chinese baked buns, but made by rolling well-kneaded dough into a long strip, coiling it into a round in a flat iron pan, brushing it with oil, and then slowly baking it until both sides are crisp and golden. Other snacks like deep-fried dough sticks, sweet rice cakes, and glutinous rice treats can also be enjoyed alongside Hulu Soup.

　　The soup has a light, fresh, and slightly sweet taste, while the breads are soft and often have a pleasantly crisp, toasty edge. Together, they don’t assault the palate with strong flavors, but instead offer a subtle, nuanced taste that reveals many of life’s simple pleasures. This, in turn, shapes the calm temperament and kind-hearted nature of the local people. It makes perfect sense that regional differences in cuisine can reflect and distinguish local customs and character.