Linqing Muslim Eight Bowls

Linqing Muslim Eight Bowls

　　When it comes to the "Muslim Eight Bowls," they are a household name in Linqing, known to everyone from children to elders. Through generations of master chefs' continuous innovation and refinement, Linqing’s Muslim cuisine has gradually developed its own distinctive set of dishes separate from other culinary styles—the "Linqing Eight Bowls and Nine Bowls." The "Eight Bowls" include roasted meat, stewed meat, pine-flower lamb, yellow-braised meat, mixed meat, clear-poached meatballs, circle pastries, and yellow-braised chicken, which are served at joyous occasions; the "Nine Bowls" are based on the "Eight Bowls" but replace the "mixed meat" with "lamb tail braised with kelp" and "braised whole lamb," and are served at funerals. These traditional Muslim dishes are all steamed, with little stir-frying involved. Moreover, since Muslims abstain from alcohol, strictly speaking, these are complete meals. But they are fragrant and delicious, offering eight distinct flavors in one broth—rich yet not greasy.

　　How did the Muslim Eight Bowls come about?

　　The "Muslim Eight Bowls" are a unique, world-renowned Muslim-style multi-course meal. Their origin traces back to the bowl-held dishes, which in turn are directly linked to the Hui Muslim soldiers. The military farming settlements of these Hui soldiers in Linqing are inevitably connected to the Grand Canal. Military farming refers to garrison troops stationed at strategic military locations for agricultural cultivation. In those days, the main purpose of the Yuan and Ming dynasties in establishing military farms in Linqing was to protect the canal transport and safeguard the grain storage. According to the *Linqing Prefecture Records*, the main sources of "Western Region Hui people migrating to Linqing" included "military registered households, overseas officials, and traveling merchants," among which the military registered households mainly came from the Yuan Dynasty military farms (1289) and the Ming Dynasty military farms (1369). The *Linqing County Annals* record that "in the third year of the Yuan Dynasty's Yanyou era, the coastal military troops were assigned to the Linqing Wanhu Command." The *Ming History • Military Records* states, "Initially, in the 26th year of the Hongwu era, the military commands and guards across the empire were established." To protect the vital canal port of Linqing, the Ming Dynasty established the "Linqing Guard" in Linqing, whose military status was equivalent to that of the Tianjin Guard and the Weihai Guard.

　　During the Yuan Dynasty, Genghis Khan led the Mongol army on a western campaign, conquering many Central and West Asian countries where Islam was the dominant faith. A large number of Persian and Arab Muslims who believed in Islam were relocated to the Central Plains. Most of them were organized into the "Tammachi Army" (also called the "Western Region Hui Soldiers") and participated in the wars to conquer the Jin, defeat the Song, and unify China. According to Yuan Dynasty regulations for the Tammachi Army: "When mounted, they prepare for battle; when dismounted, they gather and graze." The areas along the Grand Canal became important sites for these Muslim soldiers to "gather and graze." The *Yuan History • Shizu Annals* records: "As Henan and Shandong lie at the heart of the empire, Mongol Tammachi troops were stationed there in large garrisons." The term "Henan and Shandong" includes the Yongji Canal and Huitong River regions within Linqing. According to clan genealogies from Linqing villages, some Muslim surnames are descendants of the "Western Region Hui Soldiers."

　　In the early Ming Dynasty, the Ming army, led by generals Xu Da and Chang Yuchun, campaigned across the country. In the 28th year of the Zhizheng era, this Ming army "marched north along the river and camped at Linqing." Both Xu Da and Chang Yuchun were Hui, and many of their subordinates were also Hui. As Linqing was a key military site for the Ming army, a large number of Hui soldiers were stationed there permanently. Historical inscriptions record that the Old Linqing Mosque was initially built by Muslim followers including Xu Da and Chang Yuchun. During this time, Chang Yuchun, Xu Da, and Hu Dahai led troops in campaigns along the canal around Linqing and stationed Hui Muslim generals and soldiers in the area. As a result, many villages in Linqing today still retain the names reflecting their origins as military farming settlements, such as Hongguanying, Chenguanying, Zhaoguanying, and Laoguanying. At that time, the garrisoned soldiers were called "military registered households." In the Ming Dynasty, military registration was hereditary, with fixed assignments for guards and a system combining military service with farming—ensuring both a steady supply of troops and provisions. As warfare decreased and society stabilized, the Hui Muslim soldiers gradually settled in Linqing, transitioning from "soldier-farmers" to civilian farmers.

　　Whether they were the Yuan Dynasty Hui soldiers or the Ming Dynasty military registered households, their ancestors originally came from the Western Regions, and their diet mainly consisted of beef and mutton. During wartime, to adapt to the urgent, fast-paced, and convenient nature of military meals, the Hui soldiers applied their expertise in meat processing to their military rations. They pre-cooked beef and mutton using methods such as stewing, frying, and steaming to create ready-to-eat dishes for campaigns. When it was time to eat, the cooks would heat water or broth and pour it over the pre-cooked meat, instantly creating a satisfying meal. This method was not only convenient for transport but also ensured soldiers could quickly eat food that suited their dietary customs. Furthermore, such meals could feed hundreds or even thousands simultaneously. The *Folk Survey Records* note: during meals, each soldier was given a large bowl of food. They would sit in groups on the ground by unit, recite the "Bismillah" ("In the name of Allah, the Most Gracious, the Most Merciful"), and as stated in the *Sahih Muslim* ("Child, begin in the name of Allah and eat the food before you"), they would eat from their bowls. Thus, the "bowl-held meals" first took shape among the Hui Muslim troops. Later, the preparation, serving, and eating styles of these bowl-held dishes became popular among Hui military registered households and gradually merged into the lifestyle of Central Plains civilians. The practice evolved from sitting on the ground in circles to dining around square tables. Initially, although eight bowls might be served, each person might have had their own large bowl of stewed meat or chicken, eating only from their own bowl. Eventually, it evolved into a shared meal style where eight people dined together from eight bowls, though the dishes in the eight bowls could be varied, individualized, or even repeated.

　　After centuries of continuous innovation and refinement by Muslim chefs, combined with the living habits of Linqing’s Muslim community—and without violating Islamic doctrine—the Linqing "Muslim Eight Bowls" gradually took shape. Tracing back to its roots, the Linqing "Muslim Eight Bowls" have a history of over 700 years and stand as a testament to the diligence and wisdom of Linqing’s Muslim faithful.

　　What are the characteristics of the Muslim Eight Bowls?

　　Speaking of the characteristics of the Linqing "Muslim Eight Bowls," aside from their excellent color, aroma, and taste, Teacher Liu Yingshun from the Canal Culture Protection Association wrote in his article *A Brief Discussion on the Linqing Muslim Eight Bowls* about three key aspects: one meat, two broths, and three nourishments.

　　One Meat. The primary ingredients are beef and mutton. Not only are beef and mutton highly nutritious, but they also boast a delicious flavor. Islam advocates the consumption of quality meats such as beef and lamb, while prohibiting "meats that are strange in form, filthy, fierce in nature, or behave oddly" (*Quran*): "O believers, you may eat from the good things We have provided for you." As explained by Imam Ma Jian, good foods refer to beef and mutton—distinguished by their appealing appearance, fragrant aroma, rich taste, and high nutritional value.

　　Two Broths. The Muslim Eight Bowls are soup-based dishes that emphasize the use of broth. The broths include original broth, clear broth, and white broth. Dishes like circle pastries, pine-flower, and steamed cakes are paired with white broth; clear-poached meatballs with clear broth; and roasted and stewed meats with original broth. The broths in the Muslim Eight Bowls retain their original flavors to the greatest extent, without adding any modern seasonings (such as MSG, chicken essence, flavor enhancers, artificial colors, sodium salts, or tenderizers) for taste or color. This can be considered a return to simplicity in another sense.

　　Three Nourishments. The Muslim Eight Bowls are not only made of quality ingredients but also have nourishing and health-strengthening properties. The Yuan Dynasty Hui imperial physician Hu Sihui wrote in *Proper Dietetics* that "mutton and beef are warming and nourishing without being drying, fortify the foundation, strengthen muscles and bones," and regular consumption can "stimulate appetite, boost strength, dispel cold, support yang, and nourish kidneys and deficiencies." According to the Hui classic *The Rites of Islam*, "Food is for nurturing temperament," and "only camels, cattle, and sheep possess pure virtues, offering abundant nourishment and suitable for consumption." The first "China's Top Ten Longevity Elders Ranking" in 2008 showed that seven out of the top ten were Muslim elders. Therefore, Muslim cuisine is not just a culture but also an effective path to health and longevity.

　　Names and Features of Linqing "Muslim Eight Bowls" Dishes

　　1. Roasted Meat

　　Feature: Acidic fragrance, tender and soft, rich but not greasy.

　　2. Stewed Lamb

　　Feature: Soft and mellow, richly aromatic, thick broth.

　　3. Circle Pastry

　　Feature: Fragrant, tender, fluffy, refreshing broth.

　　4. Pine-Flower Lamb

　　Feature: Rich flavor, tender and soft, aromatic broth.

　　5. Clear-Poached Meatballs

　　Feature: Fragrant broth, smooth and firm texture.

　　6. Yellow-Braised Chicken

　　Feature: Tender meat, fragrant, golden color.

　　7. Tenderloin

　　Feature: Bright red color, fragrant, smooth and tender.

　　8. Mixed Meat Dish

　　Features: Fragrant, refreshing, and varied in flavor.

　　When it comes to any kind of cuisine, everyone may have their own opinions and evaluations. However, I believe that evaluating a dish should start with appreciating its culture, then its craftsmanship, and finally its taste. A food item without cultural depth is nothing more than something to fill your stomach—it can hardly be called a delicacy. The “Eight Great Dishes of Halal Cuisine” can truly be considered the finest among fine foods. As we savor and admire the “Eight Great Dishes of Halal Cuisine,” we can also sense the profound Islamic cultural heritage and the brilliance of the local culinary traditions in Linqing. Moreover, we can glean insights into the principles of life valued by the Muslim community—where simplicity in the large bowls reflects unpretentiousness, the fragrance conveys sincerity, and the straightforwardness embodies wisdom. It can be said that the “Eight Great Dishes of Halal Cuisine” from Linqing are a shining example of the harmonious blend between canal culture and Islamic culture on the land of Linqing. They are a radiant jewel in Linqing’s canal culture and an indispensable chapter in the application for Intangible Cultural Heritage status of the Grand Canal. It is our responsibility to explore, protect, and promote these dishes, striving to let people around the world know that the ancient canal city of Linqing has a renowned culinary treasure: the “Eight Great Dishes of Halal Cuisine.”