Rabbit Stewed in Wild Herbs

Rabbit Stewed in Wild Herbs

　　Rabbit meat is highly regarded, with a saying that goes, “Poultry is no match for pigeon, and game is no match for rabbit.” The most exceptional dish of all is “Rabbit Stewed in Wild Herbs.” These so-called “wild herbs” are actually medicinal plants, which can be found in the mountains of Ningde and Fuzhou regions in Fujian. Although called wild herbs, they aren’t green—they are various dried roots, branches, and leaves, and these herbs cannot be found elsewhere. People from Gutian in Fujian (known as the hometown of edible fungi), when butchering a chicken or duck, or slaughtering a rabbit, often like to dig up a basketful (běnjī — a soil-carrying tool woven from grass ropes or bamboo strips) of medicinal herbs, or pick up a bag of roots from a wild herb vendor, simmer them into half a pot of broth, and then throw in chicken, duck, rabbit, pork trotters, or the like to slowly braise. They firmly believe this method of cooking is more nourishing. Without it, it feels as though they’re wasting the “sacrificial animal.” My mother is also a wild herb enthusiast and loves using various herbs to brew soups and stew different ingredients.

　　 The broth simmered from wild herbs has a unique fragrance, which blends with the rich aroma of rabbit meat. A sense of nostalgia and the essence of the mountains wafts through the steamy herbal scent. Under the effect of the wild herb juice, the rabbit meat becomes sweet, the skin tender and soft, the flesh smooth and flavorful, neither greasy nor heavy—an absolute delight for the palate and nourishing for the body. It is deeply loved by common folks and is often consumed in autumn and winter to strengthen the body. Don’t underestimate this nearly primal “nourishing” method. Its enduring popularity in Gutian is not without reason: these “nourishing herbs,” such as Da Qing (Stinking Bugleweed), Salt Skin Tree (Bullhorn Sumac), Clustered Hair Fig (Milk Seedling), and Earth Astragalus (Mountain Yellow Bamboo), mostly have functions such as dispelling wind and dampness, promoting qi circulation, and activating blood flow.

　　 The people of Gutian in Fujian have a remarkably high level of knowledge about traditional Chinese herbal medicine, especially in rural areas where almost everyone knows several types, and those who specialize in herb gathering can identify and use dozens or even hundreds. For example, “Maple Tree Parasite,” “Old Master’s Beard,” and “Maple Clamped with Locust” are excellent remedies for rheumatism; “Yellow Goose Mugwort” and “Half Lotus” are cooling and detoxifying; “Lung Wind Grass” and white “Stone Vine” treat coughs... and so on. These are practically household names in the countryside. In the urban market area of Gutian County, there is also a rare sight not commonly seen elsewhere—the “Wild Herb Street.” The wild herb stalls along the street are filled with a variety of medicinal plants. Business is brisk, especially during winter or holiday seasons. If you want to buy herbs, just mention your symptoms, and in no time, the vendor will pick out a few from the pile of herbs and explain their properties, functions, as well as methods and dosage. If you’re buying root herbs, the vendor may even take up a cleaver to chop and slice them, then package them for you.

　　 Gutian in Fujian is a small county town, not very big, with alleys and lanes everywhere. You’ll always find shops selling wild herb soup. There are quite a few customers—it’s economical, nourishing, and good for the health.