Ji Zhou Braised Pancake

Ji Zhou Braised Pancake

　　According to historical records, the braised pancake originated in Ji Zhou during the Ming Dynasty. In the old days, there was a tradition in Ji Zhou called “study in youth, trade in adulthood.” Some clever local restaurateurs followed the business boom and successively set up Ji Zhou restaurants in cities like Beijing and Tianjin, establishing “Ji Zhou Braised Pancake” there and gradually making it famous.

　　Later, Liu Liping from Fuguan Village in Ji Zhou upheld the traditional craft of Ji Zhou braised pancake and elevated this traditional food to a new level. The pancakes he made were golden yellow in color, firm yet soft, not sticky or clumped, rich in flavor, and aromatic. There were also multiple varieties such as vegetarian braised pancake, meat braised pancake, yellow vegetable (i.e., egg) braised pancake, and mandarin duck braised pancake (two types in one plate). After liberation, Liu Liping’s disciple, Chef Yang, worked at the Matouli Supply and Marketing Cooperative Restaurant. In 1966, he even prepared braised pancake for Premier Zhou Enlai when he inspected the earthquake disaster area. Chef Yang’s apprentice, Ma Bingshu, long served as the head chef at Ji Zhou Hubinlou Restaurant, where he used Ji Zhou braised pancake to entertain merchants from 21 countries including Russia, the United States, Japan, and Israel. He was awarded the title of “Skilled Technical Worker” by the Hebei Provincial Department of Labor.

　　 Ji Zhou braised pancake has a long historical origin, profound cultural heritage, and little-known stories that continue to be passed down to this day.

　　　　The “Ji County Annals” record: every year on the second day of the second lunar month, people in Ji Zhou have the custom of eating braised pancake, symbolizing “baking the fields dry so pests don’t grow.” These few short words contain rich historical information, reflecting the strong hopes of Ji Zhou people during the agrarian society for favorable weather and abundant harvests.

　　　　Research confirms that braised pancake originated in Ji Zhou during the Ming Dynasty. By the late Qing Dynasty, Ji Zhou people doing business in cities like Beijing and Tianjin formed several major business groups, such as the “banking group,” “hardware group,” and “groceries group.” Against this backdrop, some “Ji Zhou restaurants” opened by Ji Zhou people in Beijing, Tianjin, and other places featured “Ji Zhou braised pancake” as a local specialty staple to attract fellow hometown visitors. Thus, “Ji Zhou braised pancake” gradually gained fame.

　　　　Making traditional Ji Zhou braised pancake requires a specially made iron pot, 5 to 8 cm thick, helmet-shaped, and weighing over 20 jin. This kind of iron pot conducts heat stably and evenly, allowing the broth to be absorbed without sticking, which an ordinary wok cannot achieve. The noodles used also need special preparation, commonly known as “cloth-wrapped pancake,” no more than three layers, rolled thin and cooked, then hand-cut into fine and even strips. The production technique emphasizes “old broth and sesame oil, stir-fry first then braise, cover the pot to let it sit, flip the pan to serve.” Old broth refers to the stock simmered with pork ribs and chicken bones on the back stove. The ratio of broth to pancake noodles is also strictly regulated. Typically, it’s one jin of noodles to three liang of broth. Heat control is also crucial: stir-fry over high heat, braise over low heat. Too long, and the noodles become dry; too short, and they turn sticky and soft, both affecting the taste. Ji Zhou braised pancake made in the traditional way features a golden-yellow color, firm yet soft texture, non-sticky consistency, and rich, mellow flavor. There are many varieties of braised pancake, including vegetarian, meat (with fatty meat stir-fried as big stir-fry or lean meat as small stir-fry), yellow vegetable (i.e., egg) braised pancake, and mandarin duck braised pancake (two styles in one plate).

　　　　Ji Zhou braised pancake not only has a unique flavor but has also inspired many legendary stories throughout its centuries-long heritage. Liu Liping (1889–1963), from Fuguan Village in Ji Zhou, was skilled in making Ji Zhou braised pancake and even the full Manchu-Han Imperial Feast. In the early years of the Republic of China, he was the head chef at Wanxinglou, a bustling commercial town in Matouli. During temple fair season, the famous Peking opera actor Xi Xiaobo—one of the “Four Great Dan”—would come to perform in Matouli. He loved to eat the braised pancake and stir-fries made by Liu Liping. Once, due to heavy rain, the waiter didn’t go to Wanxinglou to place the order but instead got some food from a nearby restaurant. When Xi Xiaobo tasted it, he put down his chopsticks, changed his expression, and said, “Why isn’t it the same taste? This definitely isn’t what Liu Liping from Wanxinglou made!” He wanted to send the food back but eventually ate a little after being persuaded by others. This shows how much Xi Xiaobo appreciated the traditional Ji Zhou braised pancake.

　　　　Since the reform and opening-up, with the development of Ji Zhou, merchants from 21 countries including Russia, the United States, Japan, and Israel have all tried Ji Zhou braised pancake and have spoken highly of this distinctive local food. Over the past hundred years, Ji Zhou braised pancake has integrated into the broader culinary culture of China and continued to evolve, gradually transforming from a regional specialty into a widely popular dish.