Huangshan Maofeng

Huangshan Maofeng

Huangshan Maofeng is a protected geographical indication product.

　　Huangshan is situated among She County, Taiping, Xiuning, and Qian County in Anhui Province. Its towering and peculiar peaks, robust and graceful pines, clear and unruffled mountain springs, and undulating sea of clouds are known as the "Four Wonders" of Huangshan, captivating visitors. The famous Ming Dynasty traveler Xu Xiake ranked Huangshan as the foremost of China’s renowned mountains, leaving behind the famous quote: “No need to see other mountains after returning from the Five Great Mountains, and no need to see the Five Great Mountains after returning from Huangshan.”

　　The Huangshan region, due to its high elevation, fertile soil, warm and humid climate, and the phenomenon of “frequent morning and evening mists on clear days, and constant cloud cover during overcast or rainy weather,” provides an ideal, misty environment for tea tree cultivation and has a long history of tea production. Historical records indicate that Huangshan tea was already quite famous over 400 years ago. The *Huangshan Annals* state: “Tea was cultivated beside the Lotus Nunnery in rock crevices, producing a fragrant and cool aroma that invigorated the palate, known as Huangshan Cloud Mist Tea.” Legend has it that this was the precursor to Huangshan Maofeng. The *Huizhou Prefecture Annals* record: “Tea production in Huangshan began during the Jiayou era of the Song Dynasty and flourished in the Longqing era of the Ming Dynasty.” As for when authentic Huangshan Maofeng tea was first created, according to the *Huizhou Data*, it originated during the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty (around 1875). At that time, Xie Zheng’an, a tea merchant from She County (courtesy name Jinghe), founded the “Xie Yutai” tea company. To meet market demand, around the Qingming Festival, he personally led a team to select plump, tender buds and leaves from high-altitude, renowned tea gardens such as Chongchuan and Tangkou. After meticulous pan-firing and roasting, he produced a high-quality tea with excellent flavor. Because the tea was covered in white down and its buds resembled peaks, it was named “Maofeng” (Hairy Peak), and later prefixed with the place name to become “Huangshan Maofeng.”

　　Huangshan Maofeng tea is produced in the Huangshan Scenic Area and the surrounding areas of Tangkou, Chongchuan, Gangcun, Fangcun, Yangcun, and Changtan, with the highest quality found in areas such as Taohua Peak, Yungu Temple, Ciguang Pavilion, Gangcun, and Chongchuan. Huangshan Maofeng is categorized into Special Grade and Grades One, Two, and Three. Special Grade Huangshan Maofeng is harvested around the Qingming Festival, picking one bud and one newly unfolded leaf. Other grades use one bud with one or two leaves, or one bud with two or three leaves. High-grade tea is made from robust buds with abundant down. After slight withering, the leaves undergo high-temperature fixation, shaping and stir-frying, and baking to create the final product.

　　Special Grade Huangshan Maofeng resembles a sparrow’s tongue, with visible white down, an ivory-like color, and golden fish leaves. When brewed, it emits a long-lasting, fragrant aroma, with clear liquor, a rich, mellow, and sweet taste, and tender yellow, plump, and well-shaped leaves. The “golden fish leaves” and “ivory-like color” are two distinct features that set Special Grade Huangshan Maofeng apart from other types of Maofeng.

　　When brewing Huangshan Maofeng, the water temperature should be around 80°C. Either a glass cup or a white porcelain teacup can be used, and the tea can generally be steeped 2–3 times by adding more hot water.

　　Huangshan Maofeng, a famous tea from the Qing Dynasty, is a type of roasted green tea. For a long time, people have inferred, based on the idea that “famous mountains produce famous teas,” that Huangshan Maofeng is the successor to the Ming Dynasty’s Huangshan Cloud Mist Tea. Huangshan Maofeng is produced in Huangshan, She County, Anhui Province, and is one of China’s Ten Famous Teas. It was created by the Xie Yutai Tea House during the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty (*Huizhou Data*). Every year during the Qingming and Grain Rain periods, plump and tender young buds are hand-picked and pan-fired. The tea has a slightly curled shape, resembling a sparrow’s tongue, with a greenish-yellow hue, visible silver down, and golden fish leaves (commonly called golden flakes). When brewed, the cup fills with mist, the liquor is clear and slightly yellow, the leaves are vibrant yellow-green, the taste is mellow and sweet, and the aroma is orchid-like with a lingering charm. Because the freshly made tea is covered in white down, with sharp bud tips, and the fresh leaves are picked from the high peaks of Huangshan, the tea was named Huangshan Maofeng.

　　Historical Origins

　　Shezhou was established during the Kaihuang era of Emperor Wen of Sui, continued through the Tang Dynasty, and was renamed Huizhou in the third year of the Xuanhe era of Emperor Huizong of Song. In the Yuan Dynasty, it was known as Huizhou Road, and in the early Ming Dynasty, it was originally called Xing’an Prefecture before being renamed Huizhou Prefecture, which lasted until the end of the Qing Dynasty. Huangshan was under the jurisdiction of Shezhou and later Huizhou. According to *China’s Famous Teas*, citing the *Huizhou Prefecture Annals*: “Tea production in Huangshan began during the Jiayou era of the Song Dynasty and flourished in the Longqing era of the Ming Dynasty.” It also states: “Famous teas of the Ming Dynasty: ... Huangshan Cloud Mist: Produced in Huangshan, Huizhou.” Japanese Zen Master Eisai wrote in *The Record of Tea Drinking for Health*: “Huangshan tea is an elixir for health and a marvelous technique for longevity.” Additionally, *The Classic of Tea* includes the legend “Monk Zhengzhi and Tea,” indicating that Huangshan tea was already very famous during the Ming Dynasty. Huangshan Source and the so-called “First Peak of 500 Li of Huangshan”—Zixia Peak—are mentioned in *The Classic of Tea* under the “Song of Songluo” section, citing the *She County Annals*: “Old records state that during the Longqing era (1567–1572) of the Ming Dynasty, Monk Dafang resided on Songluo Mountain in Xiuzhou, where he refined the tea-making method. The region adopted his technique, and thus the tea was called Songluo...” Some teas from She County, although “superior to Songluo,” were still generically called Songluo tea because they imitated the Songluo production method. For example, Zixia Mountain tea from She County was also called “the finest quality” and referred to as Songluo tea. The tea from Beiyuan, adjacent to Songluo Mountain in She County, was also called Beiyuan Songluo to share in its fame. The *Huizhou Prefecture Tribute Products* records: “The products of She are not fixed in quota or variety. Generally, inkstones and ink are the most prized, followed by Beiyuan tea and Zixia tea.” This indicates that at the time, both Beiyuan tea from Huangshan Source and Zixia tea from Qianpin Zixia Mountain were also very famous. In the summer of 1949, monks from the Prime Minister Source of Huangshan presented visiting government officials with gifts made by pairing freshly picked tea leaves of similar size, two leaves per pair, bundled into sets of 4–5 pairs (tied with palm leaf fibers or ramie twigs).

　　The origin of Huangshan Maofeng, according to the *Anhui Tea Annals* article “Nationally Renowned Huangshan Maofeng,” states: “Legend has it that it was during the Guangxu era, about 70–80 years ago. At that time, the Huangshan area originally produced export green tea, and the local Xie Yuda Tea House incidentally purchased a small amount of Maofeng, which was sold to Dongguan. Due to its excellent quality, it was very popular with consumers.” Also, according to the *Anhui Famous Specialties* book, written by Ye Zuyin from She County, “Huangshan Maofeng”: “The *Huizhou Data* records that during the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty, Xie Yutai Tea House in Tangkou, She County, trial-produced a small quantity of Special Grade Huangshan Maofeng tea (note: Huangshan Maofeng was not yet graded at the time) and exported it to the northeast, where it was deeply loved by customers, thus gaining national fame.” In Professor Chen Chuan’s *General History of the Tea Industry*, it is specifically noted: “When did the production of Huangshan Maofeng begin? That is also worth studying.” Later, in late 1982, with the approval of the State Council, Taiping County in the Zhizhou region was changed to the county-level city of Huangshan, and the Huangshan Commune of She County was incorporated into Huangshan City, becoming Tangkou Town. The She County Tea Company, through historical records and field investigations, began selecting production sites in 1984 in the Xintian and Tianli villages of Fuxi Township, covering 13 villager groups, to produce Special Grade Huangshan Maofeng. Among these, the Special Grade Huangshan Maofeng produced by the Chongchuan group (formerly Chongtouyuan) of Xintian Village had the highest quality. As a gift tea from She County, it was sent to Beijing before International Workers’ Day (“May Day”) in 1985. In 1985, when purchasing Special Grade Huangshan Maofeng, the She County Tea Company set the quality of Special Grade Maofeng produced in Chongtouyuan, Fuxi Township, as the standard. The product received continuous acclaim. Therefore, Li Yabei wrote: “National Famous Tea Treasure—Huangshan Maofeng,” stating: “Huangshan Maofeng was created by Xie Yuda Tea House during the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty. The founder of the tea house, Xie Jinghe, was from Caixi, She County, and made his living in the tea business, excelling in planting, picking, and processing... The tea was named ‘Huangshan Maofeng’ and shipped to Guandong, winning the deep affection of drinkers.” The “Xie Yutai Tea House” mentioned by Ye Zuyin in the *Huizhou Data* is the same as the one referred to here, minus the word “Tangkou.” Li Yabei’s description of “the founder of the tea house, Xie Jinghe...” has since been “merged” and cited in many subsequent major tea books in China. In fact, Zheng Enpu, the former Commercial Bureau Director of the Huizhou Administrative Region (from Shen County, Hebei, retired and now residing in Huangshan City), inscribed in the spring of the Year of the Wood Rabbit (1975): “Condensing the essence of Huangshan Cloud Mist, wafting the fragrance of Caixi rain and dew. Inscribed for the 100th anniversary of the creation of Huangshan Maofeng by Xie Yuda Tea House.” Then, over a decade later, Yu Yisheng, a senior tea technician at She County Tea Factory, wrote in *She Tea Craftsmanship*: “During the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty (1875), Xie Yuda Tea House created ‘Huangshan Maofeng’ in Fuxi (formerly called Caixi), Huangshan, and it has been over 100 years since.” This confirms that Huangshan Maofeng was first produced in the first year of the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty (1875).

　　Huangshan Maofeng, renowned for its unique color, aroma, taste, and shape, is hailed as a premium tea and designated as a national gift tea. Xie Zheng’an (1838–1910), courtesy name Jinghe, dedicated his life to the tea business, establishing enterprises such as the “Xie Yuda” tea house, striving for excellence and building his business on virtue for half a century. In 1875, he pioneered Huangshan Maofeng, which became a bestseller across Europe and Asia, making him a scholar-merchant of his time and the only red-topped businessman in the Huangshan area at the time.

　　Origin Evolution

　　Before the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty, the Huangshan area primarily produced export green tea. Since Xie Zheng’an of Caixi created Huangshan Maofeng in the first year of the Guangxu era, the bud tea raw materials were selected from Chongtouyuan tea gardens. Thus, Chongtouyuan in the small Huangshan source area is the birthplace of Huangshan Maofeng. Due to its location as the first deep, narrow valley village to the south after the Huangshan dry ridge turns eastward, it boasts an exceptionally favorable ecological environment, truly embodying the notion that “high mountains produce good tea.”