Xiuning Songluo Tea

Songluo tea is produced on Songluo Mountain, located along the boundary between Xiuning and She counties in Huangshan City, within the remnants of the Huangshan mountain range. The *Benjing Pengyuan* states: "Huizhou’s Songluo tea excels in aiding digestion." Songluo Nenmao is a green, healthy beverage that was innovatively developed on the basis of traditional Songluo tea and named “Songluo Nenmao.” Its raw materials are primarily sourced from Songluo Mountain, which sits at an altitude of 882 meters. This tea features tightly rolled, intact, slightly curled leaves with visible white down, and a vibrant emerald color. It has a clear, mellow, and long-lasting fragrance with a hint of olive fruitiness. The liquor is bright yellow-green, and the leaves are tender, intact, and emerald green. It is crafted by China’s intangible cultural heritage inheritor, Cuxin, and is a brand of Songluo tea.

　　Songluo tea is a historic and renowned variety of green tea, originating in the early Ming Dynasty. It is produced on Songluo Mountain in Luncun Village, Wan’an Town, Xiuning County, Anhui Province. The mountain stands 882 meters tall and is connected to Langyuan Mountain, Jinfoshan Mountain, and Tianbaoshan Mountain. With steep terrain, hanging cliffs, picturesque peaks, and lush pine trees, the area spans several miles and boasts breathtaking scenery. “Snow-Covered Songluo” was once listed as one of the Eight Scenic Spots of Haiyang in Xiuning. During the Tang Dynasty, there was a Songluo Temple on the mountain. Tea gardens are mostly distributed between 600–700 meters above sea level on the mountain. The climate here is mild, rainfall is abundant, clouds and mist are ever-present, and the soil is fertile and deep. The tea plants grown here are known as the “Songluo variety,” characterized by large bushes, thick leaves, robust buds and leaves, deep green and tender foliage, and visible fuzz—all ideal qualities for producing Songluo tea.

　　Songluo tea has been famous throughout history. In the Ming Dynasty, Yuan Hongdao wrote: “Recently, someone from Huizhou sent me Songluo tea; its flavor surpasses Longjing but falls just short of Tianchi.” Ming Dynasty’s Xie Zhaozhe remarked: “The finest teas today are Songluo, Tiger Hill, Luojia, Longjing, Yangxian, and Tianchi.” Qing Dynasty’s Mao Xiang wrote in *Ge Cha Hui Chao*: “The only tea that can rival Luojia is Songluo.” Qing Dynasty’s Jiang Chengyun also noted in *Su Hu Bian Lu*: “Tea is best when it is Songluo, also because of the exceptional beauty of Songluo Mountain. Located north of Xiuning, the mountain rises 160 zhang high, with peaks clustered together and cliffs halfway up reaching 100 zhang. The tea bushes grow among intertwined soil and rocks, resulting in a clean yet not barren taste—cleanliness brings fragrance, and not being barren brings richness. Moreover, the processing method is refined, making it superior to other regional productions.” He also said: “Huizhou tea is first and foremost Songluo from Xiuning, considered above all other teas. Indeed, Songluo is marvelous.” Qing Dynasty poet Wu Jiaji praised Songluo tea in his *Songluo Tea Song*, writing: “Tender leaves shaded in Songluo Mountain, curled green and freshly roasted everywhere.”

　　[Harvesting and Processing Techniques]

　　The harvesting and processing techniques of Songluo tea reached an exquisite level as early as three or four hundred years ago and spread to provinces such as Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Fujian, and Hubei. Ming Dynasty’s Wen Long recorded in *Cha Jian*: “When tea is first picked, twigs, stems, and old leaves must be removed, leaving only the tender leaves. The leaf tips and stems should also be discarded, as they are prone to scorching—this is the Songluo method. While frying, someone must fan the leaves beside the pan to dispel heat; otherwise, color, aroma, and flavor will all diminish. I have tested this myself—the fanned leaves remain emerald green. Once the heat subsides slightly, knead the leaves vigorously, then spread them back into the pan and dry them over low heat before roasting. Kneading causes the sap to rise, making the fragrance and flavor more pronounced during brewing.” These theories and practices are no different from those of modern pan-fired green tea. The current Tunlu pan-firing technique has been developed and refined based on these foundational standards. Songluo tea is harvested around Guyu (Grain Rain), focusing on picking one bud with two or three leaves. The fresh leaves must undergo inspection upon return and cannot contain fish leaves, old leaves, or stems. Processing must occur immediately after picking.

　　[Quality Characteristics]

　　The quality characteristics of Songluo tea are: tightly rolled, uniform, and robust strips with a glossy green color; a high, refreshing aroma; a rich taste with a hint of olive flavor; bright green liquor; and tender, green leaves.

　　[Medicinal Value]

　　Another notable feature of Songluo tea is its high medicinal value. The book *Qiudeng Conghua* records a story: “A northern merchant who traded in the south loved eating pig heads, consuming several people’s worth in one meal. A skilled physician asked his servant: ‘Does he eat like this at every meal? For over ten years?’ The doctor replied: ‘He is about to fall ill—no physician can cure him.’ When the man returned north, the doctor followed, hoping to profit from his predicted ailment, but the man remained unharmed. Upon further inquiry, the servant said: ‘After every meal, my master drinks several cups of Songluo tea.’ The doctor suddenly realized: ‘Only Songluo tea can counteract this poison.’ He then returned home.”

　　Songluo tea has significant medicinal properties, well-documented in ancient medical texts. The *Benjing Pengyuan* states: “Huizhou’s Songluo tea excels in aiding digestion.” Wu Xing Qian Songhe’s *Zi Hui Xiao Lun* says: “For constipation after illness, use three qian of Songluo tea, half a cup of rice sugar, boil until rolling, add half a bowl of water, decoct the tea into one bowl and drink—it works miraculously.” *Liangshi Jiyian* states: “To treat stubborn wounds that won’t heal or wounds infected by impurities, take a pinch of premium Songluo tea, rinse your mouth with water first, chew the tea leaves, and apply them to the wound overnight. Remove them the next day, then apply a mixture of finely powdered ginseng and oil-based rouge to the wound—it will heal in two or three days.” In 1930, Zhao Gongshang’s *Chinese Materia Medica Dictionary* recorded: “Songluo tea originates from Huizhou. Functions: eliminates food stagnation and greasiness, clears heat, reduces qi, and lowers phlegm.” In recent years, some patients with hypertension and nephritis have reported symptom relief after trying Songluo tea.

　　[Origin of the Name “Songluo Tea”]

　　The Qing Dynasty book *Yifu Rushi* contains a magical legend: The tea-making master Huanlong visited Songluo Mountain and asked where the tea was produced. A monk led him to the back of the mountain, where he saw ancient pines twisting along the cliffs, five or six zhang tall, but no tea trees. The monk said: “The tea grows among the pine branches. Tea seeds were carried by birds and sprouted among the pine branches, like mistletoe. It’s called Songluo, symbolizing the way mistletoe clings to pine trees.” When asked about the picking method, the monk tapped the pine roots with his staff and shouted: “Old friend, where are you?” Immediately, two or three large apes leaped down, climbed the trees, and picked the tea leaves. Thus, the tea was named Songluo.

　　[Legend of Songluo Tea]

　　In Xiuning County, Anhui Province, there is a mountain called Songluo Mountain, famous for producing a type of tea known as Songluo tea. Not only does Songluo tea boast a rich aroma and strong flavor, but it is also believed to have genuine healing properties. To this day, many traditional Chinese medicine practitioners in Beijing, Tianjin, Jinan, and surrounding areas still prescribe Songluo tea in their prescriptions. Songluo tea is used to treat hypertension and stubborn sores, and it also aids digestion and relieves constipation. As for the origin of Songluo tea, legend has it that during the Hongwu era of Emperor Taizu of the Ming Dynasty, there were two large water vats in front of Rangfu Temple on Songluo Mountain. They caught the attention of a pilgrim. The vats, having aged over time, were covered in green algae. The pilgrim approached the temple and told the old abbot that the two vats were treasures worth 300 taels of gold. They agreed that the pilgrim would return in three days to collect them. After the pilgrim left, the old monk, fearing the vats might be stolen, immediately had the green algae and water poured out, cleaned the vats, and moved them inside the temple. When the pilgrim returned three days later and saw the cleaned vats, he claimed the treasure’s aura had dissipated and they were now useless. The old monk deeply regretted it, but it was too late. As the pilgrim was leaving the temple, he turned back and said the treasure’s aura still lingered in front of the temple—at the spot where the green water had been poured. If tea trees were planted there, magical tea leaves would grow, and three cups of this tea could sober up even the drunkest person. The old monk followed his advice and planted tea trees. Soon, the young buds emitted a fragrant aroma, and the tea was named “Songluo tea.” Two hundred years later, during the reign of Emperor Shenzong of the Ming Dynasty, an epidemic of typhoid and dysentery broke out in the Xiuning area. People flocked to Rangfu Temple to pray for blessings. The abbot gave each visitor a packet of Songluo tea and taught them the “Universal Relief Method”: those with mild symptoms should brew the tea frequently with boiling water and recover in two or three days; those with severe symptoms should fry the tea with ginger, salt, and glutinous rice until charred, then boil and drink it—or grind it into powder and swallow it. Recovery would also occur in two or three days. Indeed, the treatment proved highly effective, stopping the epidemic in its tracks. From then on, Songluo tea became a miraculous remedy, gaining widespread fame and renown.

　　[Tracing the History of Tea]

　　Songluo Mountain has records of tea production dating back to the Tang Dynasty, but the fame of Songluo tea truly spread during the Ming Dynasty. Ming Dynasty’s Feng Shiyi wrote in *Cha Lu*: “Huizhou previously had no tea, but recently, Songluo tea has become the most fashionable. … This tea is slightly coarser than Tianchi tea but has a very fragrant and clearer taste. However, compared to Tiger Hill tea, it can be considered equal, though not superior.” During the Ming Dynasty, drinking Songluo tea became a trend, as its fragrance surpassed that of Tiger Hill tea, earning it many admirers.

　　[Poetry as Evidence]

　　*Inscription on a Painting*

　　By Zheng Banqiao

　　Neither wind nor rain, just fair and mild,

　　Graceful bamboos stand with sturdy pride.

　　I love when cool dusk brings guests in style,

　　Brewing new tea with Songluo’s tide.

　　A few fresh leaves sway by slender bamboo,

　　Light strokes of ink depict hills so wide.