Split-Frozen Crucian Carp

Split-Frozen Crucian Carp

　　“Split-Frozen Crucian Carp” is a traditional famous dish from the Yangzhou region. 　　Crucian carp has long been considered a delicacy on Chinese dining tables. As early as the Song Dynasty, it had become a popular dish in restaurants and eateries, available in a wide variety of styles. According to the Southern Song Dynasty works *Dream Record of a Dreamer* (*Meng Liang Lu*) and *The Old Man of West Lake’s Record of Prosperity* (*Xi Hu Lao Ren Fan Sheng Lu*), crucian carp dishes offered at restaurants and eateries in Lin’an (now Hangzhou) during that time included “Braised Crucian Carp,” “Twice-Cooked Crucian Carp,” and “Steamed Crucian Carp.” The *Yunlin Hall Dietary System Collection* (*Yun Lin Tang Yin Shi Zhi Ji*) by Ni Zan of the Yuan Dynasty recorded a dish called “Crucian Carp Tripe Soup.” During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, even more varieties of crucian carp dishes appeared. Historical records include “Crispy Bone Fish” from *The Lost Recipes of Yi Ya* (*Yi Ya Yi Yi*), and “Crucian Carp Soup,” “Wine-Marinated Fish,” and “Sour Fish” from *The Record of Raising the Young* (*Yang Xiao Lu*). 　　The Qing Dynasty writer Li Yu stated: “When eating fish, freshness is most important, followed by fattiness. A fish that is both fatty and fresh represents the peak of its kind. However, even when both qualities are present, one may be emphasized over the other. For example, fish such as the crucian carp and the carp are prized mainly for their freshness, which is best brought out by clear boiling into a soup.” As for how to select crucian carp and how to eat it, ancient texts throughout history have provided accounts, but the most detailed description comes from the Qing Dynasty’s Yuan Mei in his *Suiyuan Shidan* (*Recipes from the Sui Garden*). Yuan Mei said: “First, one must know how to buy crucian carp. When buying, choose those with flat bodies and white coloration—such carp have tender and loose flesh that separates easily from the bones after cooking. Those with dark spines and deep-colored bodies are tough and unpalatable—real pests among fish—and must not be eaten. The best way to cook them is to steam them in the style used for bream, followed closely by pan-frying. The separated meat can also be used to make a soup. People from Tongzhou are known for simmering crucian carp until even the bones and tail become crisp—this dish is called ‘crispy fish’ and is suitable for children. However, nothing beats the true flavor achieved through steaming. Crucian carp from Longchi in Luhe are remarkable in that the larger they are, the more tender they become. When steaming, use wine instead of water, and add a small amount of sugar to enhance the freshness. Adjust the amount of autumn soy sauce and wine according to the size of the fish.” Since the Qing Dynasty, Yangzhou has been well known for its crucian carp dishes, and “Split-Frozen Crucian Carp” is a celebrated seasonal delicacy in the summer months. (Yangzhou)