Zhanduo Cuo Nama
The Zhanduo Plateau Lake Cluster is situated on a vast grassland 90 kilometers northwest of Xionglongxi Township in Xinlong County, at an altitude of 4,690 meters. There are over a hundred lakes of various sizes (including more than 20 lakes larger than 1,000 square meters). From the mountaintop, the scattered lakes look like broken pieces of a mirror scattered across the stone forests and grasslands, shimmering brilliantly under the sunlight. After visiting these numerous lakes, you’ll arrive at the source of the Zhanduo Plateau Lake Cluster — Black Sea (known as Zhanduo Cuo Nama in Tibetan). Upon first sight, the water appears pitch black, surrounded by lush green grass and blooming flowers, with undulating distant mountains, resembling a vividly contrasting painting. This area is rarely visited by humans, and the surrounding mountains are dotted with peculiar rocks — some resembling fierce beasts, others like majestic human head statues... Amid the green grass and flowers, yellow "small spruce trees" — the stems of the Fritillaria plant — stand tall from time to time. Zhanduo Cuo Nama means "the black lake among scattered rocks." It is surrounded by mountains on three sides and stretches like a ribbon from north to south. The northern end serves as the inlet for the tributary lakes of the Zhanduo cluster. This water flows continuously into the Huoqu River, providing a steady supply of hydroelectric power to the Xinlong County Huoqu Power Station. The entire lake surface is black in color, primarily due to the geological structure of the Zhanduo region. Located on the grassland with numerous marshes, the lakebed mostly consists of silt, and the high mineral content in the area gives the lake its dark hue. The lake spans 4 square kilometers in total. There is a small island at both the northern and southern ends of the lake. The northern island lies about 80 meters from the shore. Viewed from the lakeside, it resembles a large female alligator lying still on the water, with a newly born baby alligator seemingly trying to break free from its mother’s watch and swim toward the center of the lake.
Legend has it that one evening, a herd of horses came to the lake to drink. Seeing the lush green grass growing on the islands in the lake, they rushed through the shallow water to feast on the grass. After eating their fill, they lay down to rest on the islet. But when dawn broke, they found themselves unable to cross back through the shallow water. The herder came looking for the horses and called out to them, but they wouldn’t come. He decided to wade into the lake to drive them back. However, the moment his foot touched the water, the lake surface immediately churned with waves, the horses on the island neighed anxiously, and dark clouds gathered overhead, signaling an impending disaster. With no choice, the herder withdrew his foot and retreated to the shore. Instantly, the lake calmed down, though the sky remained gloomy. To help the horses return safely to the shore, the herder walked dozens of miles to invite a revered monk. As soon as the monk finished chanting scriptures by the lake, the horses walked back to the shore on their own. From then on, the grass on the islands grew scarce, and no humans or livestock have dared to venture onto the islands since.
Climbing up the mountain to the west of Zhanduo Cuo Nama, and looking out over the lake, the small islands at the northern and southern ends resemble two fish swimming in opposite directions — one heading north and the other south. Gazing northward, the continuous stretch of lakes extends to the horizon, with colorful wildflowers along the grassy shores embellishing these “mirrors” like delicate lace, offering a uniquely beautiful view of the “Zhanduo scenery.”
Zhanduo Cuo Nama not only boasts a distinctive landscape but also features rapidly changing weather and a dynamic lake surface. Under a clear blue sky dotted with drifting white clouds — sometimes shaped like animals, sometimes like mountains, some running, some wandering — suddenly, a dark cloud speeds in from the mountains, turning the sky pitch black. White mist rises halfway up the hills, shrouding the entire lake in a misty rain, creating an atmosphere as if some catastrophe is imminent. The lake surface changes unpredictably: at times, a deep, dark, and glistening “path” forms on the water, tempting one to stroll along and enjoy the sensation of floating on water; at other times, the lake lies serene and still, like an ancient black mirror; and occasionally, it sparkles like fish scales neatly arranged across its surface... Locals warn that one must not shout or make loud noises by Zhanduo Cuo Nama; otherwise, the clear sky may suddenly darken with thunder rumbling, and hail or snow may pour down in an instant, catching you off guard. Soon after, the sky returns to normal.
Zhanduo Cuo Nama not only offers unique, ever-changing, and captivating scenery, along with mysterious legends, but it also holds abundant minerals. The area is rich in caterpillar fungus, Fritillaria, and snow lotus along its shores, and wild herds of red deer are often seen grazing nearby. Moreover, due to its high altitude, winding paths, and sparse human presence, it is also an excellent destination for adventure tourism.
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